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EG/EK Mods & Upgrades-Updated 25Nov08 Revising-NO TCSS!

Civic model year 1980 - 2000
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Emperorcivic
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Post by Emperorcivic » Sat Jan 17, 2009 3:08 am

tanpm wrote:hey bro, i just bought a 2nd hand Civic ESI '92, everything is fully stock and im new to this forum.
Any recommendations on how to increase power?

IHE wise, Open Pod + HS + CAI or just the stock air intake (recommendations on filters too, for open and drop in filter)? ,

Header 4-2-1 (is it legal for civics?),

Exhaust (is the stock mid pipe and exhaust good enuff?), lastly what kinda ecu is advisable, say in the range of under 1k including tuning and what are the overall gains if possible.

Thanks in advance (:
FORCED INDUCTION!!!!!!! =D

header 4-2-1 is legal as long as not chrome chrome.

stock midpipe is not good enough.

ecu with tuning of 1k.
get a 2nd hand emanage ultimate to tune.
but its the last thing u shudd do until u complete all ur mods.

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Post by garilee » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:18 pm

tanpm wrote:hey bro, i just bought a 2nd hand Civic ESI '92, everything is fully stock and im new to this forum.
Any recommendations on how to increase power?

IHE wise, Open Pod + HS + CAI or just the stock air intake (recommendations on filters too, for open and drop in filter)? ,

Header 4-2-1 (is it legal for civics?),

Exhaust (is the stock mid pipe and exhaust good enuff?), lastly what kinda ecu is advisable, say in the range of under 1k including tuning and what are the overall gains if possible.

Thanks in advance (:
for $1k, just get a 4-2-1 extractor, knock thru yr cat, get a vafc and a set of final drive and close ratio gearbox
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Post by civic`esi » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:27 pm

garilee wrote:
tanpm wrote:hey bro, i just bought a 2nd hand Civic ESI '92, everything is fully stock and im new to this forum.
Any recommendations on how to increase power?

IHE wise, Open Pod + HS + CAI or just the stock air intake (recommendations on filters too, for open and drop in filter)? ,

Header 4-2-1 (is it legal for civics?),

Exhaust (is the stock mid pipe and exhaust good enuff?), lastly what kinda ecu is advisable, say in the range of under 1k including tuning and what are the overall gains if possible.

Thanks in advance (:
for $1k, just get a 4-2-1 extractor, knock thru yr cat, get a vafc and a set of final drive and close ratio gearbox
boss $1k hard to get final drive and close ratio gearbox leh .. dun 4get ur close ratio gearbox selling @ $1k-$900 leh .. 8) if zc gearing still ok la ..
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garilee
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Post by garilee » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:20 am

Manuel wrote:Hi, i'm new to the forum and just read your ek swap info - very good. But i realised the info for the front brake swap only relates to if you want to retain your stock hubs. My question is if i'm doing a full swap where i use the hubs, will the drive axles for my car work with the hubs for dc2 4x100, 4x114 and ek9 5x114?
dc2 4X114.3 hub use any bseries drive shaft (except 98-00 dc2r)
dc2 5X114.3 hub can only use the drive shaft fr 98-00 dc2r
ek9 5X114.3 hub use any bseries drive shaft (except 98-00 dc2r)
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Post by Manuel » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:04 am

96-7 JDM ITR = 4x114, GSR sized brakes, 'standard' 32mm axles
98-01 JDM ITR = 5 bolt, USDM ITR sized brakes, 36mm axles
97-01 USDM ITR and 97-00 JDM CTR = 5 bolt, 32mm axles

to use the the 98+ JDM ITR front brakes you need 36mm out axles (so the only option is to swap out the outer joints for the CRV or Accord or Prelude) or run a OBDI DOHC/SOHC ZC type hydro tranny from a JDM teg which requires and uses b-series axles and intermideate shaft, therfore then the only obsticale would be to get those 98+ ITR axles (36mm axles).

Garilee, thanks for the response. I found the above info on honda-tech and was wondering what if my car has 32mm axles. I have a 99 civic ferio MI ie d15b with cvt tranny. If i do, ctr would be a bolt up job.[/quote]

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Post by garilee » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:34 pm

Manuel wrote:
96-7 JDM ITR = 4x114, GSR sized brakes, 'standard' 32mm axles
98-01 JDM ITR = 5 bolt, USDM ITR sized brakes, 36mm axles
97-01 USDM ITR and 97-00 JDM CTR = 5 bolt, 32mm axles

to use the the 98+ JDM ITR front brakes you need 36mm out axles (so the only option is to swap out the outer joints for the CRV or Accord or Prelude) or run a OBDI DOHC/SOHC ZC type hydro tranny from a JDM teg which requires and uses b-series axles and intermideate shaft, therfore then the only obsticale would be to get those 98+ ITR axles (36mm axles).

Garilee, thanks for the response. I found the above info on honda-tech and was wondering what if my car has 32mm axles. I have a 99 civic ferio MI ie d15b with cvt tranny. If i do, ctr would be a bolt up job.
d15b=32mm same as ek9 (ctr). not easy to find
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Hi

Post by tanpm » Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:51 pm

-a
Last edited by tanpm on Sun May 03, 2009 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Hi

Post by garilee » Thu Feb 26, 2009 11:51 am

tanpm wrote:Im intending to swap out my D16Z6 for a B16A block for my 4Dr ESI, the B block comes with the necessary mountings, shift links etc etc.
(1) Care to share any experiences? (2) Like, would the car be unbalanced, wad else would i need to change etc? OR is it even worth it to begin with!
(3) Deal looks like 1.5k with swap. + additional 1k for labour at seller's workshop.
I assume yr car is esi since u are using a d16z6 engine:

1) i dun have experience doing such big non-lta approved mod :roll:

2) As follows:
-undercarriage: esi is almost the same as eg9 (b16 engine) except for the front brakes. Upgrade the front brakes (perludes 282mm are best value) coz ur car will be pushing much higher HP
-exhaust: u need a b series extractor
-engine: u only mentioned engine block. What abt the engine head, gearbox intake manifold, distributor, pwer steering pump, air con, drive shaft, crank pulley etc?
-ecu: u also need a dohc ecu
-engine block numbering?

3) Deal looks cheap as long engine is healthy, its for full swap for plug & play into yr esi, & u ok with the big non-lta approval risk.
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Post by pgm iv » Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:21 am

bro eg6 and ek4 front lower control arm same?
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garilee
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Post by garilee » Sun May 03, 2009 12:08 am

pgm iv wrote:bro eg6 and ek4 front lower control arm same?
eg & ek diff due to subframe design
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Post by pgm iv » Mon May 04, 2009 12:21 am

garilee wrote:
pgm iv wrote:bro eg6 and ek4 front lower control arm same?
eg & ek diff due to subframe design
ek one eg can use?
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Post by garilee » Thu May 07, 2009 3:10 pm

pgm iv wrote:
garilee wrote:
pgm iv wrote:bro eg6 and ek4 front lower control arm same?
eg & ek diff due to subframe design
ek one eg can use?
very troublesome & costly to convert to ek but yes, i think shd be direct fit.
ek subframe=> for ek front arm
eg/dc2 subframe=> for dc2/eg front arm

ek subframe stronger & heavier.

For EG, Dc2r is strongest (Got big anti-roll bar & big subframe bar to strengthen), follow by dohc eg6/9 (smaller anti-roll bar & smaller subframe bar) then esi (same anti-roll bar as dohc eg6/9 but no subframe bar), then lsi (useless.. no bars).
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Post by herong » Thu May 07, 2009 5:52 pm

hi, wish to enquire what are the disadvantages and advantages of having racing cams? how much horses does it boost ?

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Post by cyrix1976 » Thu May 07, 2009 6:00 pm

herong wrote:hi, wish to enquire what are the disadvantages and advantages of having racing cams? how much horses does it boost ?
just cam alone will not bring out too much bhp although you will see certain gain, alot of other factor also come in place. to do up a engine is not like some other mod which you can slowly add on.

will prefer you save up and fully understand what you want before you mod. track setup and drag setup is different too. you wouldn't want to have stage 3 or 4 cams for your track setup, too wild. at the same time if you just wanna go for 1/4 mile, then you will not interested in stage 2 cam, too mild for you.

the story will never end................................... ask yourself, what you want
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Post by garilee » Fri May 08, 2009 2:35 pm

herong wrote:hi, wish to enquire what are the disadvantages and advantages of having racing cams? how much horses does it boost ?
like wat bro cyrix1976 mentioned, u have to ask yrself wat u want 1st. Generally, extreme cams= more areas to upgrade= more $=more maintenance= poor drivability at low rpms.

Best value for DOHC is the type r cams (NA/turbo). For NA set-up in SOHC, juz go for the stage3 crower.
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