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Integra FAQs - ANSWERS

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Chase!
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Integra FAQs - ANSWERS

Post by Chase! » Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:24 pm

Consolidated FAQs & Answers. With help from bros here!


ADVICE ON INTEGRA.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Differences Rear bumper between GSR, ITS & ITR – http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


BRAKES.

Wilwood - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=43643
Endless or Wilwood? - http://www.integrasg.com/html/forum/viewtopic.php?t=890



BODYKITS .

Replica ING'S Kit for FL GSR - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


ECU TUNING .

Help on VAFC/RSM - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

HONDATA - http://www.integrasg.com/html/forum/viewtopic.php?t=128

VAFC2 Dyno - http://www.integrasg.com/html/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569

E-Manage - http://www.integrasg.com/html/forum/viewtopic.php?t=280

ENGINE TUNING .

Hondata Heatshield Gasket

- http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=43199

- http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44804

TODA - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=46191

EXHAUSTS.

Operated Mufller or SuperSprint - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Mugen Exhaust - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44810

DC Sports - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=45355


FUEL / LUBRICANTS.

for ITR & GSR - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=46376

Minimun Octane Level for GSR and ITR - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44276

GROOMING .

Integra Type S Emblem - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

Glare - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=42820


INSURANCE.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=47089


INTAKE.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Pictures of different intakes - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=43580

AEM CAI - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44804

Sound of Mugen Airbox - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44058

ARC v Mugen - http://www.integrasg.com/html/forum/viewtopic.php?t=795


LIGHTS .

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Philip Light Bulbs - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=45649

RIMS.

Original ITR Rims for GSR - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Points to note when changing RIMS? - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

Anti Theft measure's for wheels - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


SUSPENSION TUNING.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=45684

TEIN SuperStreet - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

What is Camber?- http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

DC5R Rear Sway bar - http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=44125
Last edited by Chase! on Sat Nov 12, 2005 7:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Post by Chase! » Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:29 pm

Difference between various DC5 Integras: -

JDM Integra Type R - 220bhp (available in Singapore through parallel importers)
JDM Integra Type S - 160bhp (available in Singapore through parallel importers)
Kah Motor's Integra GSR - 160bhp
USDM RSX-S - 210bhp (in USA only?)

Well, let's see if any bro can do a fuller comparo and I'll replace this temporary post.

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Post by Chase! » Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:33 pm

Differences between DC5 IS and DC5 Type R - contributed by TachiJRS

EXTERIOR

The iS does not have the lower front lip, side mouldings, rear bumper skirt and spoiler of the Type R. The Type R does not have a sunroof option. Different badges. (Of course)

INTERIOR

iS lacks Momo steering, aluminium garnish on parts of the center console and interior, red carpeting, red door fabric, red mats, recaro seats, red stitching on whatever, aluminium gear knob. All of which adorns the Type R.

Most of the other equipment like auto aircon, motorised mirrors. anti glare, heat blocking glass are available either as standard equipment or options.

ENGINE

The most important part. Both have K20A, but as I explained before in another thread, the main diffference between the iS (160bhp) and Type R (220bhp) is the head design. The iS is the el cheapo or economy version that is a mass production engine tuned for low to mid range torque rather than power. Having basically one set of cam profiles to operate on, the VTC and VTEC system gives the K20A iS engine a flexibility of 4 different modes. Compare this to the EK3 3 stage VTEC and you will see why it s superior. Plus its Twin Cam arrangement gives the valvetrain better stability in higher rpm.

The Type R K20A on the other hand is just like the B18C, B16A/B of yore. Each camshaft sprouts three different profiles, Two operating before 'VTEC point' and the third 'racing' cam that gives you that wonderful sound and rush that all Honda fans have come to marvel and love. Hand built and put together by the best Honda engineers in the factory, the Type R engine is an almost perfect balance of power, refinement (too refined I feel) and usability.

Here is a brief list of what is different between the two engines:

Crank shaft, flywheel, conrods, conrod bearings, main bearing bolts, pistons, gasket seal, the whole cylinder head, cams, cam lobes, valves, valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, solenoid actuator, oil pump, intake manifold, throttle body, exhaust manifold, muffler etc etc

So you see, it is a completly different engine altogether.

TRANSMISSION

The iS has either a 5 speed manual or 5 speed lock up torque converter while the Type R gets a 6 speed tranny and a nifty torque sensing helical LSD. Plus, the drive shafts and CV joints are beefed up to handle the extra torque and power.

SUSPENSION

The Type R is lowered from the iS ride height (unloaded) of 150mm to 130mm running harder dampers. Plus, the rear springs are progressive ones. Some people liek to mess with the stock Type R suspension settings by lowering the car and using coilovers but only end up messing up the handling charecteristics that Honda meant the Type R to have.

CHASSIS

Now this is actually what really seperates any Type R model past or present from the base model. You can basically drop a Type R engine into any Honda but you cannot replicate what Honda engineers have done to the body from birth. Here is a list of the chassis mods done to a base Integra DC5 to turn into a Type R bodyshell.

First are a list of what you can buy to put on an iS body:
Front Strut tower bar
Rear Strut tower bar
Front crossmember reinforcement bar
Rear body connecting point reinforcement bar
Aluminium front lower arms
Type R spec lower arm bush
Type R spec (thicker) front and rear anti-roll bars
Front lower arm bar
Most bushes in the chassis

Now these are stuff you cannot do at all:
Front lower casing mount reinforcement up
Rear wheel arch casing floor reinforcement up
Rear upper mount reinforcement up
Rear lower arm wishbone reinforcement up
Rear lower arm bar (brackets welded in)
C pillar upper connection point reinforcement
and some others I cannot remember at this point of time...

BRAKES
Type R gets 300mm front brake discs gripped by four pot Brembo calipers and increased rear discs.

WHEELS

The iS runs on 15 inch wheels while the Type R runs 225/45R17 wheels

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Post by Socrates33 » Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:45 am

GSR Rims
PCD 114.3 x 5 Lugs
Offset +45 (Can use Rims +/- 5 Offset)

Type R Rims
Offset +60
Last edited by Socrates33 on Mon Jul 18, 2005 10:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by DC5_Kate » Mon Jul 18, 2005 1:46 am

Contributed by TachiTJRS

I don't exactly know what you guys term as 'conversion'. If it be looks, then its simple..but if it means making the iS/GSR into a Type R.....you will come close but no cigar....

Read this link to a previous post of mine on the differences between the two but similar models.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=type

The next attempts to explain about the differences in both models K20A engine.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=type
Last edited by DC5_Kate on Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Mon Jul 18, 2005 6:26 pm

Advice on Integra. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Helps on VAFC/RSM. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Fuel Consumption for ITR & GSR. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Air Intake. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Foglight & HID Light. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Bodykits & Suspension. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Operated Mufller or SuperSprint. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Original ITR Rims for GSR. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


TEIN SuperStreet. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0


Integra Type S Emble. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


Differences Rear bumper between GSR, ITS & ITR. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


What is Camber?. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


Points to note when changing RIMS?. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


Anti Thieft measure's for wheels. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


Replica ING'S Kit for FL GSR. Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
Last edited by DC5_Kate on Sat Sep 03, 2005 3:47 am, edited 14 times in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Fri Jul 22, 2005 2:52 am

Big Time Poison List without Antidote is HERE!! Below is the link to the thread.

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
Last edited by DC5_Kate on Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:42 am

Link to MUGEN Site for MUGEN bodykits & accesseries for Integra

http://www.mugen-power.com/street/integ ... index.html
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Post by E36UDM » Wed Aug 03, 2005 4:58 pm


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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:20 am

Last edited by DC5_Kate on Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:45 am

Hi all,

A very good short video clips on K20A & K20A3 engine mechanisms like VTC, i-VTEC,variable intake manifold, etc. Thought it might be knowledgeable for fella's teg's bro's or sista's who is running on K20 engine. :drool:


K20A (ITR) 220Bhp

http://www.honda.co.jp/environment/deta ... vie02.html

K20A3 (GSR & ITS) 160Bhp

http://www.honda.co.jp/environment/deta ... vie03.html

Information on K20A Engine

http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=


Regards,
DC5_Kate
Last edited by DC5_Kate on Sun Nov 13, 2005 8:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:49 am

Some weblinks for reference:

ARC International
www.arcinter.co.jp

Endless Sports
www.endless-sport.co.jp/eindex.htm

J's Racing Japan
www.jsracing.co.jp

SpoonSports Japan
www.spoon.jp

HKS Japan
www.hks-power.co.jp

Billion
www.billion-inc.co.jp
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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:54 am

How to tell if my brake discs are worn out?

If suspect your rotor is worn out.. feel the edge of the rotor, if you can feel a depression where the rotor surface meets the edge, then the disc might be nearing the end of its life.. another way to tell is to use a vernier caliper and measure the thickness of the rotor and comparing it to the manufacturer's specs.. once the rotor is thinner than the manufacturer's minimum thickness, then it needs to be replaced.

Discs are usually damaged in one of three ways, warping, scarring, cracking. The useful life may be greatly reduced by excessive machining.

Warping is caused by excessive heat build up, which softens the metal and can allow it to be disfigured. This can result in wheel shimmy during braking. The likelihood of warping can be reduced if the car is being driven down a long grade by several techniques. Use of a lower gear to obtain engine braking will reduce the brake loading. Also, operating the brakes intermittently - braking to a slower than cruising speed for a brief time then coasting will allow the brakes to cool between applications. The suitability of this is of course, dependent upon traffic conditions. Riding the brakes lightly will generate a great amount of heat with little braking effect and should be avoided.

Scarring can occur if brake pads are not changed promptly, all the friction material will wear away and the caliper will be pressed against the metal backing, reducing braking power and making scratches on the disc. If not excessive, this can be repaired by machining off a layer of the disc's surface. This can only be done a limited number of times as the disc has a minimum safe thickness. For this reason it is prudent to periodically inspect the brake pads for wear (this is done simply on a vehicle lift when the tires are rotated without disassembly of the components). When practical they should be replaced before the pad is completely worn.

Cracking is limited mostly to drilled discs, which get small cracks around the drilled holes. These cannot be repaired.

Resurfacing or "skimming" as it is more well known here.. has three purposes; to remove warps, to remove scoring, and to remove a glazed surface when new pads are installed. Brake shops will often resurface through a machining operation regardless of the need to do so due to warping or scarring. This can reduce the useful life of the rotor in cases where only a light glaze removal (using emery cloth) would suffice. Reducing the life of the rotors is of little concern to many brake shops as they can make money on replacing rotors worn (or machined) below the manufacturer's minimum specified thickness.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 6:00 am

Braking: Slide-rail vs. Piston Calipers
by LEMD:


Floating "slide-rail" calipers are a fact of life. They are OE on practically everything now and as usual the marque fans will yell "The brakes on my [fill in the blank] are great!" Sorry. If they are any type of sliders, they are not "great."

Simply, slide rail calipers work by moving a single large piston -- and the caliper frame -- to press the pad against one side of the rotor, while in opposition pulling the other side of the housing and pad to the other side of the rotor. The whole 5-6 lb. assembly moves. In addition to that, the piston covers just a portion of the pad, while leaving the rest of the pad unsupported by anything but its backing plate. The motion of the rotor causes the pad to flex in on one unsupported side, and out on the other, leading to pad taper. (See drawings below of slide rail and 6-piston versions of Wilwood calipers. The dotted-line circles show how much of the pad is used by the respective pistons.

The biggest problem with slide-rails centers around the most important issue in braking: release. That you can "lock them up anytime I want" is NOT a good test of a braking system. On the contrary.

The average driver is right in thinking that weight (unsprung weight in calipers and rotors on four corners) and temperature are the critical factors in braking. The article here in the University on brake pads looks at some of those considerations. But the real issue in performance braking is not the clamping force but release and how quickly and precisely you can take the force OFF the rotors to keep that knife edge of balance. Slide rail calipers just don't -- can't -- release rapidly and smoothly enough.

With the application of pressure through the hydraulics, slide rails must move the caliper against both sides of the rotor. To release the clamping force they must move the same distance, back. On the other hand, pistons move a fraction of that distance to clamp and unclamp the pad to the rotor. The result translates into lots more finesse.

Most of the time, slide rail calipers contribute to significant pad taper, again due to the basic geometry of the system. The inherent flex of the rail system causes the pads to interface with the rotors unevenly --'tilting' or torqueing, rather than clamping the rotor with consistent force along the face of the pad and the rotor. As you will read in the article on brake pads, this has a dramatic effect on performance and feel -- another element in that 'release' issue we're discussing.

Fixed piston calipers -- with pistons on both sides -- are designed to deliver more consistent force across the brake pad. That's why six-piston calipers are more precise than four-piston ones, given the same installation design.

Here, I need to note that radial-mount calipers enhance this intent compared to lug-mount calipers. First, because the radial mounts, that are perpendicular to the diameter of the rotor allow for more leeway in where/how you need to mount them; and second, because the wider the gap between the mounts, the stiffer the caliper -- some of the lug-mount calipers have a 3 1/2" gap, some have 6" -- which again affects how evenly the clamping force is delivered to the pad. But some wheel configurations don't allow for radial mount. And lug-mounts are definitely less expensive.

Piston calipers equal more braking force controllability, which equals greater ability to feather your brakes.
Last edited by DC5_Kate on Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DC5_Kate » Sun Aug 07, 2005 6:04 am

Plain vs. Slotting vs. Drilled Rotors
by Kevin (Camaro Z-28 Owner)


Once upon a long time ago, rotors were originally drilled to eliminate something known as "green fade". The best way to explain "Green fade" is to relate it to an air hockey table. The puck is suspended on a cushion of air that prevents it from touching the table, this reduces the friction between the puck and the table.

A long time ago, pads were made with the best resins we had available. Many of those resins would produce gas as they cured. When a pad was used the first few times, the heat would "cure" the resin which would cause it to produce vapors. This was known as "out gassing". The vapors would build up between the pad and the rotor and lift or "force" the pad away from the rotor (like the puck in air hockey). This caused the brakes to be very ineffective, even though they were not yet at the maximum rated operating temperature. [when this happens, you'll retain your brake feel, i.e. the pedal pressure will be firm, but the car just won't stop! this led to alot of accidents on the track in the earlier years of motorsport] The holes were drilled to allow that gas a place to escape. So, it is correct to say that rotors were cross drilled to eliminate fade, but not for the reasons you would think. The good news is that today's resins no longer suffer from these problem and the modern race pads are so good that this is really no longer an issue. So, by cross drilling rotors, you will only manage to shorten the lifespan of that rotor (it now has less surface area to wear against the brake pad and will wear more quickly as well as a reduction in weight that will cause the brakes to operate at a higher temperature).

Another problem with cross drilled rotors is the potential for cracking around the holes. The holes become a stress point in the cast iron that can more readily allow cracks to form in the rotor surface. This requires that you pay close attention to the rotor surface for signs of cracking. Some small cracks, known as "surface checking" are acceptable, but anything that resembles a crack would be a reason to replace that rotor. When looking at slotted rotors keep in mind that the slots should not be milled off of the edge of the rotor. This is a great place for cracks to form, and they will. The slot should be ball milled in the rotor face and originate and terminate on the surface of the rotor without exiting the rotors edge. The goal is to eliminate sharp edges that cause stress risers on the rotor surface. This will reduce the possibility of cracking. If you see slotted rotors with slots that are milled off the edge of the rotor, shop for another brand. Slots that are not cut through the edge of the rotor are a good sign that the manufacturer of that rotor knows what they are doing. This is a good indicator of parts made by a brake company and not a machine shop that happens to drill and slot rotors.

If you must go bigger, look at any of the various brake upgrades available from many major manufacturers. Brembo, Baer, and many others will have what you need, if you need to upgrade. There are larger kits and they increase in both cost and braking ability. Only your needs and your budget are the limit.


AP Racing wrote:
Disc grooves and sometimes cross drilling are frequently used on racing brake discs to clean the surface of the pad and allow gases produced to escape. In doing so the friction characteristics are modified, different groove and & drilling patterns affect the friction characteristics in different ways, some affect overall friction and others the bite or release characteristics and therefore the best solution is not necessarily the same for each application.


Baer Brake Systems wrote:
What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur.


Brembo wrote:
Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia. Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures.
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