Hi to all,
From my initial posting, I have gotten quite a few queries and this is my follow-up.
By changing the PCV valve and rubber grommet, I am happy that for the past 10 days, my car no longer experiences any more shuddering upon braking to a stop or moving off from stop.
Parts bought at Ang Brothers, Blk 24 Sin Ming Rd. PCV (SGD 17), rubber grommet (SGD5)
My vehicle has the following :
Mileage : 112k
Engine Oil : 0W-30 Idemitsu
Spark Plugs : Denso Iridium IK20L
Air Filter : Stock.
My observations for the past 10 days are:
During 1st warm up of the day, when engine temp below C, at P, rpm at 1200, A/C off, when A/C on, rpm drops to 1000.
Upon engage R and brake on, rpm drops and holds steady at 800+, A/C on has no effect on RPM.
Upon engage D, rpm holds at 800+. But upon A/C on, rpm drops to 500 and jerk, rpm goes up to 800-900 then drops again. When A/C off, brake on engage D, rpm is stable at 800+
Now moving off in HDB carpark, engine temp starting to go up, but with A/C off, no jerks experienced at stopping, rpm at stop is steady at 800-900.
Eventually when engine temp indicator is finally at 1/3 above C and 2/3 below H ( takes about 3 mins), rpm is stable at 850-1000, A/C is on (no noticeable drop when switch on). Braking slowly or suddenly to complete stop has no effect on rpm, it settles at 900. When start off, sometimes (about 5%) a little vibration but much weaker, rpm drops to 750 momentarily then bounces back to 900.
I hope this info helps to give you the confidence to replace the PCV valve. Seems it is recommended as good maintanence to change it every 40k - info from internet research.
Reading your postings, I can see the helpless frustration just like what I been thru for the past 3 years and my countless cleaning attempts and fluid changes.
Can sms me at 96808264, I will be glad to help.
PCV valve change stops my06 Airwave Start off Jerk & Shu
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Airwave Lurva
- Idling
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:47 am
I agree that most mechanics don't know where the valve is at b'coz its normally at the top. Tried to get mine changed by the mechanic but he can't seem to find it.
Tks to Airwave Lurva & jengwe for the explanation & blow up drawing. I guess i'll have to do it myself.
Tks to Airwave Lurva & jengwe for the explanation & blow up drawing. I guess i'll have to do it myself.
Twinkle twinkle little star .... sigh ...
Sorry to burst everyone's bubble, it did not work for me..
Firstly must really thanks Jengwe for his time and effort and the numerous calls I made to him while I was trying to change the valve. And thanks to Mr Ang of Ang Bros for helping me to get the valve at short notice and waited for me to reach their shop even after their operating hours.
When I first tried to DIY I burnt my hand when I tried to reach for the valve but accidently touch the hot coolant pipe instead. This was after a 2 hr diy CNY carwash at the carpark at 12am. So as you can see, our ride takes a looooong time to cool down.
So second try.... I left the car over night and try to change it in the morning. I found the valve after making a few call to bro Jengwe. No matter how much I pull, tugged, twist the tubing which is connected to the valve, it just didnt want to come out. No choice, with a blacken hand and iphone, I brought it down to a mech. The mech also cant locate the valve until I point out to him. He had to use a long and bended sort of screw driver to pry the valve out, and break the rubber grommet to get it out.
I inspected the old valve and new valve, both spring tension feels the same though. The old rubber grommet feels alot harder than the new one. The mech installed the new valve and grommet and I took it for a spin. The jerking feels alot lesser, dont know if it is only in my mind though. So I happily paid and left. Then the jerk came back when I was about to reach home and back to square one..
I'm not sure if I had damage anything from my pulling and tugging during my second try. Now im suspecting if it is the engine and gearbox mounting. Checked with stockist, it cost $400++ for parts alone. My ang bao money not enough to cover lei..
Firstly must really thanks Jengwe for his time and effort and the numerous calls I made to him while I was trying to change the valve. And thanks to Mr Ang of Ang Bros for helping me to get the valve at short notice and waited for me to reach their shop even after their operating hours.
When I first tried to DIY I burnt my hand when I tried to reach for the valve but accidently touch the hot coolant pipe instead. This was after a 2 hr diy CNY carwash at the carpark at 12am. So as you can see, our ride takes a looooong time to cool down.
So second try.... I left the car over night and try to change it in the morning. I found the valve after making a few call to bro Jengwe. No matter how much I pull, tugged, twist the tubing which is connected to the valve, it just didnt want to come out. No choice, with a blacken hand and iphone, I brought it down to a mech. The mech also cant locate the valve until I point out to him. He had to use a long and bended sort of screw driver to pry the valve out, and break the rubber grommet to get it out.
I inspected the old valve and new valve, both spring tension feels the same though. The old rubber grommet feels alot harder than the new one. The mech installed the new valve and grommet and I took it for a spin. The jerking feels alot lesser, dont know if it is only in my mind though. So I happily paid and left. Then the jerk came back when I was about to reach home and back to square one..
I'm not sure if I had damage anything from my pulling and tugging during my second try. Now im suspecting if it is the engine and gearbox mounting. Checked with stockist, it cost $400++ for parts alone. My ang bao money not enough to cover lei..
Airwave Repair info
Hi All,
I have received many calls with regards to the PCV change.
Guess its not the miracle cure to all that jerks and shudders.
Anyways, its really your own decisions yeah.
By the way, as I had mentioned earlier that I was still having vibrations during warming up and my itchy fingers couldn't stop tinkering. But once warmed up, I confirm I have no more A/C on vibrations but sometimes have weaker vibrations at Start and Stop.
So I made a few phone calls and got somemore stuff to change.
I managed to change the alternator, that I got for a used one at SGD$80 at Kheng Keng Auto, a scrapyard dealer located at 61 Tuas Crescent but not much effect.
Why I changed, was because my OBDII was reading a load value of approx 38%-44% at idle with nothing enaged (it was at P or N) or anything on (no lights, audio, or A/C), and the Honda service manual found on the intenet mentioned that spec was from 12%-34%, so I tried, lucky only SGD$80. Why the Alternator? Because, it seems that Honda is so into fuel economy that their Alternators are 4 pin instead of the usual 3 pin as the extra pin provides feedback signal to the ECU/PCM on how much load is the Alternator facing and adjusts the idle accordingly.
Also, I will be going to JB to have my car diagnosed after all that tinkering by Yong Ming located at Skudai, go surf the net, you will find them.
They are a distributing agent for Honda and its a proper workshop with proper electonic diagnostics. I am going in for ECM check, fuel filter change and Exhaust/Intake Valve adjustment (this adjustment is quoted as RM90). Yong Ming is big, cos their Big Boss is also a distributing agent for Toyotas, Audis and BMW in JB, so confidence yeah.
Best news, they will perform a CVT overhaul, excluding parts for RM900, parts is probably another RM1500, but they have advised that its cheaper to buy in Singapore due to import tax in Malaysia. If you want to use their parts, its from Thailand and there is still shortage due to the flood.
I have before embarking on all this tinkering, actually bought an entire CVT transmission from Kheng Keng for SGD$100, it was a spoilt one with a broken CVT belt but there were usable parts worth much more....Hee. So I have actually taken apart an entire CVT.
What I observed is that there are 2 filters in there which somehow, somewhere and sometime would require replacing and no amount of flushing will get it clean. So a CVT overhaul is probably a must sometime in its operating history. Since I think I not wanting to give my hard-earned buck to the government for a 50k COE, 5yrs and 100k kms would be my half way mark to overhaul the CVT, hopefully till COE prices head south in 2015.
So for CVT parts, Ang Brothers at Blk 24, Sin Ming will sell you the 2 filters for abt SGD$110 and the complete Start Clutch Kit including some seals for just under SGD$395. That works out around RM1500.
So thats all the info and the money I will spend to iron out this vibrating issue before I surrender.
Hope the info is helpful, Much cheers for this CNY.
I am back at work, so appreciate you all sms me instead of calling.
I have received many calls with regards to the PCV change.
Guess its not the miracle cure to all that jerks and shudders.
Anyways, its really your own decisions yeah.
By the way, as I had mentioned earlier that I was still having vibrations during warming up and my itchy fingers couldn't stop tinkering. But once warmed up, I confirm I have no more A/C on vibrations but sometimes have weaker vibrations at Start and Stop.
So I made a few phone calls and got somemore stuff to change.
I managed to change the alternator, that I got for a used one at SGD$80 at Kheng Keng Auto, a scrapyard dealer located at 61 Tuas Crescent but not much effect.
Why I changed, was because my OBDII was reading a load value of approx 38%-44% at idle with nothing enaged (it was at P or N) or anything on (no lights, audio, or A/C), and the Honda service manual found on the intenet mentioned that spec was from 12%-34%, so I tried, lucky only SGD$80. Why the Alternator? Because, it seems that Honda is so into fuel economy that their Alternators are 4 pin instead of the usual 3 pin as the extra pin provides feedback signal to the ECU/PCM on how much load is the Alternator facing and adjusts the idle accordingly.
Also, I will be going to JB to have my car diagnosed after all that tinkering by Yong Ming located at Skudai, go surf the net, you will find them.
They are a distributing agent for Honda and its a proper workshop with proper electonic diagnostics. I am going in for ECM check, fuel filter change and Exhaust/Intake Valve adjustment (this adjustment is quoted as RM90). Yong Ming is big, cos their Big Boss is also a distributing agent for Toyotas, Audis and BMW in JB, so confidence yeah.
Best news, they will perform a CVT overhaul, excluding parts for RM900, parts is probably another RM1500, but they have advised that its cheaper to buy in Singapore due to import tax in Malaysia. If you want to use their parts, its from Thailand and there is still shortage due to the flood.
I have before embarking on all this tinkering, actually bought an entire CVT transmission from Kheng Keng for SGD$100, it was a spoilt one with a broken CVT belt but there were usable parts worth much more....Hee. So I have actually taken apart an entire CVT.
What I observed is that there are 2 filters in there which somehow, somewhere and sometime would require replacing and no amount of flushing will get it clean. So a CVT overhaul is probably a must sometime in its operating history. Since I think I not wanting to give my hard-earned buck to the government for a 50k COE, 5yrs and 100k kms would be my half way mark to overhaul the CVT, hopefully till COE prices head south in 2015.
So for CVT parts, Ang Brothers at Blk 24, Sin Ming will sell you the 2 filters for abt SGD$110 and the complete Start Clutch Kit including some seals for just under SGD$395. That works out around RM1500.
So thats all the info and the money I will spend to iron out this vibrating issue before I surrender.
Hope the info is helpful, Much cheers for this CNY.
I am back at work, so appreciate you all sms me instead of calling.
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blacktyphoon
- 5000rpm
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2004 2:35 am
- Location: Where else, but Westsiders
- Contact:
Just finished meetup with Bro Jengwe...Really appreciate him for his time and patience.
Told him my ride is coming to 180K and he was shocked. Anyway my car got this vibration esp when reversing and at traffic stop and moving off. What he did for me is same as what he posted. He help me changed the rubber gormet and pcv , although a 2nd hand one but was in much better condition than my own.
Next he took out my IAC and did cleaning and was told that even though its a small part but its one of the major cause of vibration. Next, he did a re gap on my spark plug. That all.
After all these, i test drive and true enough, i cannot say vibration is totally gone but at least 60% improvement than before. Especially when i did a reserve the vibration is to minimum.
I will monitor for the next few days..Watch out for my after review. Once again thanks bro...I don't think any workshop will do like what you did.
Told him my ride is coming to 180K and he was shocked. Anyway my car got this vibration esp when reversing and at traffic stop and moving off. What he did for me is same as what he posted. He help me changed the rubber gormet and pcv , although a 2nd hand one but was in much better condition than my own.
Next he took out my IAC and did cleaning and was told that even though its a small part but its one of the major cause of vibration. Next, he did a re gap on my spark plug. That all.
After all these, i test drive and true enough, i cannot say vibration is totally gone but at least 60% improvement than before. Especially when i did a reserve the vibration is to minimum.
I will monitor for the next few days..Watch out for my after review. Once again thanks bro...I don't think any workshop will do like what you did.