Anyone drive Honda jazz more than 5 years or more?
Anyone drive Honda jazz more than 5 years or more?
Hi,
I wish to find out is there anyone out there still driving their Honda Jazz for more than 5 years or more? How do you maintain your car and still working fine? Cos I intend to keep the car for 7 years or more with regular maintaining... you think is possible? How much is the cost for those who drive their car more than 100000km mileage?
Please advise!
I wish to find out is there anyone out there still driving their Honda Jazz for more than 5 years or more? How do you maintain your car and still working fine? Cos I intend to keep the car for 7 years or more with regular maintaining... you think is possible? How much is the cost for those who drive their car more than 100000km mileage?
Please advise!
Hi Bro,
My Jazz is almost 4.5 years and still running well so far, aside from the juddering problem that came with my batch of CVT transmission. After changing CVTF (old one was ATF), it is almost totally gone but if it persists, use the Oil Extreme concentrate and that should pretty much remove the juddering.
Other than that, the engine is good (as with all honda engines) and relatively quiet to begin with. If you're thinking of driving 7-10 years then change your engine oil religiously depending what oil you use (approx every 10,000K +/- unless you're using mineral oil). I'm using Amsoil 0w30 which can last much longer (20,000K+) but even then I will change <15,000K at the very latest.
Spark plugs, use iridium if you don't want the hassle of changing as frequently otherwise normal ones are decent enough I'd say. I'm using Denso Iridium plugs x 8 that cost me $120 (bloody costly due to 8 plug config instead of 4).
As for the air filter, there's some debate on whether there's any long term impact in using the stock paper filter or drop-in aftermarket ones like K&N (cotton fiber) or Hurricane (microscopic stainless steel holes). I was on stock air filter during the first 4 years and recently changed to a K&N drop-in for $90. Felt a bit different but not sure if that's due to my engine oil change, transmission oil change, spark plug change or just a combination of everything. Stock paper filter between $15-$30, Kah 'Karrot' Motor charging $50+. K&N filter needs maintenance every 50,000 or so, just take out and clean and apply cleaning oil (2 types, one is using bottle to drip and the other is a spray aerosol which is much easier and faster, costs $10+). Keep the old paper filter to use while the K&N filter is drying out after cleaning/oiling.
Other than that, nothing special that I can think of... usual wear and tear applies and depending on driving style other things might need changing earlier like brake pads (I'm on 60,000 but have yet to change my stock pads, moderate driver unlike our crazy SAF racing team 'drivers') and tyres. These are the two most important things that keep you on the road/alive, other than using your brain/commonsense
If there's anything I feel that might give me problems, it's the suspension so just be aware of any weird sounds or softness. Get them checked out if anything seems amiss. Also if you have a GD model like me that's affected by the juddering/vibration, I wouldn't recommend keeping for the full 10 years. The transmission is faulty by batch and I wouldn't trust it to last very long. Last thing I want is a transmission overhaul etc.
Overall, one of the most fun and versatile hatchbacks to drive (I moved house numerous times just with this, can fit tv console and IKEA shelves what more can I ask!?). You can't really go wrong with a japanese honda engine imho, just treat it with some TLC and it should serve you for as long as your fancy lasts. I think there are quite a few people here or in FJC who are already well past 100,000 and no major issues reported by them that I can recall.
I'm very tempted to change to a continental car or SUV but I still have a soft spot for the Jazz, that's just me though. Great turning radius, nippy from the start, heaps of space, low FC and maintenance, able to park/squeeze in tight spaces... hard not to like it even if it's not a luxury vehicle that many often crave for as we grow older and more affluent.
My Jazz is almost 4.5 years and still running well so far, aside from the juddering problem that came with my batch of CVT transmission. After changing CVTF (old one was ATF), it is almost totally gone but if it persists, use the Oil Extreme concentrate and that should pretty much remove the juddering.
Other than that, the engine is good (as with all honda engines) and relatively quiet to begin with. If you're thinking of driving 7-10 years then change your engine oil religiously depending what oil you use (approx every 10,000K +/- unless you're using mineral oil). I'm using Amsoil 0w30 which can last much longer (20,000K+) but even then I will change <15,000K at the very latest.
Spark plugs, use iridium if you don't want the hassle of changing as frequently otherwise normal ones are decent enough I'd say. I'm using Denso Iridium plugs x 8 that cost me $120 (bloody costly due to 8 plug config instead of 4).
As for the air filter, there's some debate on whether there's any long term impact in using the stock paper filter or drop-in aftermarket ones like K&N (cotton fiber) or Hurricane (microscopic stainless steel holes). I was on stock air filter during the first 4 years and recently changed to a K&N drop-in for $90. Felt a bit different but not sure if that's due to my engine oil change, transmission oil change, spark plug change or just a combination of everything. Stock paper filter between $15-$30, Kah 'Karrot' Motor charging $50+. K&N filter needs maintenance every 50,000 or so, just take out and clean and apply cleaning oil (2 types, one is using bottle to drip and the other is a spray aerosol which is much easier and faster, costs $10+). Keep the old paper filter to use while the K&N filter is drying out after cleaning/oiling.
Other than that, nothing special that I can think of... usual wear and tear applies and depending on driving style other things might need changing earlier like brake pads (I'm on 60,000 but have yet to change my stock pads, moderate driver unlike our crazy SAF racing team 'drivers') and tyres. These are the two most important things that keep you on the road/alive, other than using your brain/commonsense
If there's anything I feel that might give me problems, it's the suspension so just be aware of any weird sounds or softness. Get them checked out if anything seems amiss. Also if you have a GD model like me that's affected by the juddering/vibration, I wouldn't recommend keeping for the full 10 years. The transmission is faulty by batch and I wouldn't trust it to last very long. Last thing I want is a transmission overhaul etc.
Overall, one of the most fun and versatile hatchbacks to drive (I moved house numerous times just with this, can fit tv console and IKEA shelves what more can I ask!?). You can't really go wrong with a japanese honda engine imho, just treat it with some TLC and it should serve you for as long as your fancy lasts. I think there are quite a few people here or in FJC who are already well past 100,000 and no major issues reported by them that I can recall.
I'm very tempted to change to a continental car or SUV but I still have a soft spot for the Jazz, that's just me though. Great turning radius, nippy from the start, heaps of space, low FC and maintenance, able to park/squeeze in tight spaces... hard not to like it even if it's not a luxury vehicle that many often crave for as we grow older and more affluent.
Hi whirlwind
I am also driving Jazz coming to 4 years. Also hoping to drive it for another couple of years more before my COE expired. However, do you have any recommendation of workshop that specialise on Jazz or Fit, coz servicing at KAH motor especially major servicing can cost damn expensive.
Thanks.
I am also driving Jazz coming to 4 years. Also hoping to drive it for another couple of years more before my COE expired. However, do you have any recommendation of workshop that specialise on Jazz or Fit, coz servicing at KAH motor especially major servicing can cost damn expensive.
Thanks.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:57 pm
Hi everyone,
I just bought a 5 yrs old 1.3A Honda Jazz. Mileage close to 100km.......
So far i just went to the workshop to change the following
1)Engine oil
2) Engine Filter
3) Spark Plugs x 8
4) Coolant water
5) Brake Pad
6) Air-con Filter
7) Auto Transmission Fluid
Belt
I also did a check on the battery status.
The only things i have not change yet is
1)Water pump
2) Fuel Filter
3) Wear out Tyres
4) Air Fliter (Still doing fine)
Please kindly advise me is there anything else to keep a look out for
Thanks
I just bought a 5 yrs old 1.3A Honda Jazz. Mileage close to 100km.......
So far i just went to the workshop to change the following
1)Engine oil
2) Engine Filter
3) Spark Plugs x 8
4) Coolant water
5) Brake Pad
6) Air-con Filter
7) Auto Transmission Fluid
Belt
I also did a check on the battery status.
The only things i have not change yet is
1)Water pump
2) Fuel Filter
3) Wear out Tyres
4) Air Fliter (Still doing fine)
Please kindly advise me is there anything else to keep a look out for
Thanks
-
- Idling
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 8:43 pm
Bro I am concern as to use CVTF instead of ATF, in our car manual it stated that the vehicle must use only original Honda ATF-Z1. It didn't mention about using CVTF,I approach my workshop and he confirm this. On the ATF plug that we put out from our engine, it stated ATF.whirlwind wrote:Hi Bro,
My Jazz is almost 4.5 years and still running well so far, aside from the juddering problem that came with my batch of CVT transmission. After changing CVTF (old one was ATF), it is almost totally gone but if it persists, use the Oil Extreme concentrate and that should pretty much remove the juddering.
Other than that, the engine is good (as with all honda engines) and relatively quiet to begin with. If you're thinking of driving 7-10 years then change your engine oil religiously depending what oil you use (approx every 10,000K +/- unless you're using mineral oil). I'm using Amsoil 0w30 which can last much longer (20,000K+) but even then I will change <15,000K at the very latest.
Spark plugs, use iridium if you don't want the hassle of changing as frequently otherwise normal ones are decent enough I'd say. I'm using Denso Iridium plugs x 8 that cost me $120 (bloody costly due to 8 plug config instead of 4).
As for the air filter, there's some debate on whether there's any long term impact in using the stock paper filter or drop-in aftermarket ones like K&N (cotton fiber) or Hurricane (microscopic stainless steel holes). I was on stock air filter during the first 4 years and recently changed to a K&N drop-in for $90. Felt a bit different but not sure if that's due to my engine oil change, transmission oil change, spark plug change or just a combination of everything. Stock paper filter between $15-$30, Kah 'Karrot' Motor charging $50+. K&N filter needs maintenance every 50,000 or so, just take out and clean and apply cleaning oil (2 types, one is using bottle to drip and the other is a spray aerosol which is much easier and faster, costs $10+). Keep the old paper filter to use while the K&N filter is drying out after cleaning/oiling.
Other than that, nothing special that I can think of... usual wear and tear applies and depending on driving style other things might need changing earlier like brake pads (I'm on 60,000 but have yet to change my stock pads, moderate driver unlike our crazy SAF racing team 'drivers') and tyres. These are the two most important things that keep you on the road/alive, other than using your brain/commonsense
If there's anything I feel that might give me problems, it's the suspension so just be aware of any weird sounds or softness. Get them checked out if anything seems amiss. Also if you have a GD model like me that's affected by the juddering/vibration, I wouldn't recommend keeping for the full 10 years. The transmission is faulty by batch and I wouldn't trust it to last very long. Last thing I want is a transmission overhaul etc.
Overall, one of the most fun and versatile hatchbacks to drive (I moved house numerous times just with this, can fit tv console and IKEA shelves what more can I ask!?). You can't really go wrong with a japanese honda engine imho, just treat it with some TLC and it should serve you for as long as your fancy lasts. I think there are quite a few people here or in FJC who are already well past 100,000 and no major issues reported by them that I can recall.
I'm very tempted to change to a continental car or SUV but I still have a soft spot for the Jazz, that's just me though. Great turning radius, nippy from the start, heaps of space, low FC and maintenance, able to park/squeeze in tight spaces... hard not to like it even if it's not a luxury vehicle that many often crave for as we grow older and more affluent.
I would like to check with you, does your car by default use ATF or CVTF.
CVTF is for CVT and ATF Z-1 is for AT
Wow this thread is a year oldvincentthung wrote: Bro I am concern as to use CVTF instead of ATF, in our car manual it stated that the vehicle must use only original Honda ATF-Z1. It didn't mention about using CVTF,I approach my workshop and he confirm this. On the ATF plug that we put out from our engine, it stated ATF.
I would like to check with you, does your car by default use ATF or CVTF.
Anyways, when they first released it was indeed using ATF Z-1 and so it may appear as such in the manuals as well as the drain plug, depending on the year of your ride. However after they discovered this problem either around 2005/2006 or even earlier, they released CVTF to mitigate the issue. The CVTF fluid is supposedly better and apparently reduces the juddering that people have experienced worldwide.
This issue and the use of CVTF as a better performing CVT fluid is widely known on multiple forums in SG, AU and ID. Anyone still using ATF Z-1 on their CVT transmission (Jazz/Fit series) should seriously consider switching to CVTF instead. I'm not saying that ATF Z-1 cannot be used as I'm sure some people could still be using it unknowingly, however your mileage may vary with regards to the transmission performance/iifespan. Honda did not say that ATF Z-1 cannot be used but that they've released a new CVTF specifically for the CVT.
I quote someone from another forum:
"The label on the back of this "new" CVTF oil says specifically that this is for CVT, while the label on the regular ATF Z-1 says for "Honda conventional automatic transmission."
If this statement were to be true, it may imply that Honda simply used standard AT gearbox fluid on the new CVTF gearbox, which is reported to be highly sensitive and finicky. CVT is anything but 'conventional AT' as Honda would have learnt by now, together with the unsuspecting owners unfortunately.
I found this on the Honda Malaysia website (sorry no external links allowed I think, navigate to the website and then Services -> Parts -> PMSS Parts - Transmission Fluids):
Honda Genuine ATF Z-1 (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
* Specially developed by Honda R&D for Honda Automatic Transmission
* Superior Extended Maintenance Interval
* Reduced gear change shift shock
* Anti-shudder stability
* Special anti foam properties
* Offer seal compatibility
Honda Genuine CVTF (Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid)
* Specially developed by Honda R&D for Honda Continuous Variable Transmission
* Seizure resistance
* Effective wear prevention
* Increased torque capacity
* Judder prevention (initial, life)
* Improved gear durability
Look at the portions that I highlighted in red as it's clear as daylight which is more suitable for our Honda ride or any CVT car for that matter. In my eyes, CVTF was made for CVT boxes and that should be the recommended fluid instead of a normal AT fluid like ATF Z-1 which should never have been used from the onset.
Do your own research and ultimately it's up to you whether you choose to believe your workshop or the numerous owners from all over the world. Call up Kah Motors as an extra source of information (they better know, although my trust in their service and servicing no longer exists). Better still, call up another few workshops and ask them the same question (ATF Z-1 or CVTF) then you'll have a much clearer picture. My little piece of advice is to try and find a workshop that services a lot of Honda vehicles so that they're likely more updated and aware of any issues.
Finally to answer your question, I'm unsure what CVT fluid my car came factory-direct with. All I know is at the next change to CVTF the juddering was almost gone totally but at that point the condition of my CVT box could have worsened somewhat and only usage of Oil Extreme concentrate would get rid of it totally. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it'll remain like this until my next car change.
My 2005 Honda Jazz manual (in English) which was printed in Japan only says this on page 298 under CVT Maintenance:
"Always use genuine Honda CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) Fluid."
I was not able to find any reference at all to ATF Z-1, CVTF, HMMF for the CVT fluid. Hope this helps in demystifying the whole ATF Z-1 and CVTF confusion for you or anyone else having this dilemma.
-
- Idling
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 8:43 pm
Re: CVTF is for CVT and ATF Z-1 is for AT
Bro thank for ur advice, I call up mah motor and their techician also told me CVtf therefore I will change my transmition fluid soon in order not to cause further damageswhirlwind wrote:Wow this thread is a year oldvincentthung wrote: Bro I am concern as to use CVTF instead of ATF, in our car manual it stated that the vehicle must use only original Honda ATF-Z1. It didn't mention about using CVTF,I approach my workshop and he confirm this. On the ATF plug that we put out from our engine, it stated ATF.
I would like to check with you, does your car by default use ATF or CVTF.
Anyways, when they first released it was indeed using ATF Z-1 and so it may appear as such in the manuals as well as the drain plug, depending on the year of your ride. However after they discovered this problem either around 2005/2006 or even earlier, they released CVTF to mitigate the issue. The CVTF fluid is supposedly better and apparently reduces the juddering that people have experienced worldwide.
This issue and the use of CVTF as a better performing CVT fluid is widely known on multiple forums in SG, AU and ID. Anyone still using ATF Z-1 on their CVT transmission (Jazz/Fit series) should seriously consider switching to CVTF instead. I'm not saying that ATF Z-1 cannot be used as I'm sure some people could still be using it unknowingly, however your mileage may vary with regards to the transmission performance/iifespan. Honda did not say that ATF Z-1 cannot be used but that they've released a new CVTF specifically for the CVT.
I quote someone from another forum:
"The label on the back of this "new" CVTF oil says specifically that this is for CVT, while the label on the regular ATF Z-1 says for "Honda conventional automatic transmission."
If this statement were to be true, it may imply that Honda simply used standard AT gearbox fluid on the new CVTF gearbox, which is reported to be highly sensitive and finicky. CVT is anything but 'conventional AT' as Honda would have learnt by now, together with the unsuspecting owners unfortunately.
I found this on the Honda Malaysia website (sorry no external links allowed I think, navigate to the website and then Services -> Parts -> PMSS Parts - Transmission Fluids):
Honda Genuine ATF Z-1 (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
* Specially developed by Honda R&D for Honda Automatic Transmission
* Superior Extended Maintenance Interval
* Reduced gear change shift shock
* Anti-shudder stability
* Special anti foam properties
* Offer seal compatibility
Honda Genuine CVTF (Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid)
* Specially developed by Honda R&D for Honda Continuous Variable Transmission
* Seizure resistance
* Effective wear prevention
* Increased torque capacity
* Judder prevention (initial, life)
* Improved gear durability
Look at the portions that I highlighted in red as it's clear as daylight which is more suitable for our Honda ride or any CVT car for that matter. In my eyes, CVTF was made for CVT boxes and that should be the recommended fluid instead of a normal AT fluid like ATF Z-1 which should never have been used from the onset.
Do your own research and ultimately it's up to you whether you choose to believe your workshop or the numerous owners from all over the world. Call up Kah Motors as an extra source of information (they better know, although my trust in their service and servicing no longer exists). Better still, call up another few workshops and ask them the same question (ATF Z-1 or CVTF) then you'll have a much clearer picture. My little piece of advice is to try and find a workshop that services a lot of Honda vehicles so that they're likely more updated and aware of any issues.
Finally to answer your question, I'm unsure what CVT fluid my car came factory-direct with. All I know is at the next change to CVTF the juddering was almost gone totally but at that point the condition of my CVT box could have worsened somewhat and only usage of Oil Extreme concentrate would get rid of it totally. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it'll remain like this until my next car change.
My 2005 Honda Jazz manual (in English) which was printed in Japan only says this on page 298 under CVT Maintenance:
"Always use genuine Honda CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) Fluid."
I was not able to find any reference at all to ATF Z-1, CVTF, HMMF for the CVT fluid. Hope this helps in demystifying the whole ATF Z-1 and CVTF confusion for you or anyone else having this dilemma.
I have been driving 2005 till to date. its has been with me since. e mileage is about closed to 240000 so far am don face prob with e car. just a norm maintenance will do. and be disciplined with e servicing and also driving style will play a huge roll on e car
enjoy driving till now. . . hehehe
do what's app me at 97258080 regards on e car character
feel free to ask
enjoy driving till now. . . hehehe
do what's app me at 97258080 regards on e car character
feel free to ask
I have been driving 2005 till to date. its has been with me since. e mileage is about closed to 240000 so far am don face prob with e car. just a norm maintenance will do. and be disciplined with e servicing and also driving style will play a huge roll on e car
enjoy driving till now. . . hehehe
do what's app me at 97258080 regards on e car character
feel free to ask
enjoy driving till now. . . hehehe
do what's app me at 97258080 regards on e car character
feel free to ask
e only parts that's being replaced are e norm wear and tear
car 2005 model
1. engine mounting changed once somewhere in 2010
2 left side wheel drive shaft changed once in 2010 cos smack pot holes
3. all 4 wheel bearings changed once in 2010 due to upgrade to 17 inch rims
4. fan motor both replaced once in 2009 as one of them is faulty and since its being replaced so take advantage to replace e other one too
no major prob so far with e rest of e parts such as gearbox or air con or coolant
advised
1. to replace belt around 50k to 60k
2. gear oil around 50k to 60k
3. standard service used good and trusted engine oil
4 spark plugs replaced every 20k for e front and 40k for e back just used e norm spark plugs are ok and good too
that's all as can remembered for now
thanks
car 2005 model
1. engine mounting changed once somewhere in 2010
2 left side wheel drive shaft changed once in 2010 cos smack pot holes
3. all 4 wheel bearings changed once in 2010 due to upgrade to 17 inch rims
4. fan motor both replaced once in 2009 as one of them is faulty and since its being replaced so take advantage to replace e other one too
no major prob so far with e rest of e parts such as gearbox or air con or coolant
advised
1. to replace belt around 50k to 60k
2. gear oil around 50k to 60k
3. standard service used good and trusted engine oil
4 spark plugs replaced every 20k for e front and 40k for e back just used e norm spark plugs are ok and good too
that's all as can remembered for now
thanks