suggestion for tuner?
suggestion for tuner?
hey,
just wanna ask is there any good tuner for NA to intro?
currently driving a ES5 auto
just wanna ask is there any good tuner for NA to intro?
currently driving a ES5 auto
I assumed u are looking for mod to improve accelerate, but don't want ur ride to get high fuel consumption, right?marcsen wrote:ohh.. thanks.. im looking at a balance of power and fuel consumption. like more power but not so fuel consuming. ard 2k? is it enough to get what i want?
U can try to lighten ur car like change to forged rim (reduce unsprung weight). Change to drop in air filter to increase air flow. Change engine oil to lower viscosity to improve low end torque etc..
Above mod can slightly to improve the acceleration, fuel consumption should not much increase or even better, but it will cost u $$$ a bit. If u still not satisfy, then u may need to consider heavy mod liou!
- MCDS
- Civic ES/EU/EP Moderator
- Posts: 7871
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:15 pm
- Location: Somewhere... out there.....
$2k cannot do much... if only for the piggyback and install and tuner, yes it's enough, but you will not get much yield from there...
If you just want acceleration and fuel efficiency, here's the hottest tips.
Stay stock. change to 14 inch forged rims like VR CE28 or SSR Type C rims...
Unload EVERYTHING that moves from your car except for parking coupon, insurance and log card, keep your spare and tools if you wish, but everything else GOES OUT.
That thick carpet from 3M or the copycat heavyweight mats? remove, put the thin carpet type (original from KM - very light. or copy that's light)
keep stock airbox becos short ram will KILL your aceleration below 4,000rpm. Use a high flow drop in filiter like hurricane, or K&N, or Simota into your stock airbox.
Go do an electronic wheel alignment and wheel balancing (2 different things) to set for most economical mode.
service your brakes and handbrake to have at least 3 clicks before lock to get less friction during rotation.
reset your ECU.
MOST important of all, watch your techometer not to exceed 3,000 rpm when you accelerate from a full stop, and never FLOOR your accelerator, one quarter will already move your car quite quickly.
want to learn? come for meetup L:) many bro here will share tips wif u face to face. dun shy, we all strangers once, only united by the love of the ES.
meetup every Friday. See the sticky folder on meetup.
If you just want acceleration and fuel efficiency, here's the hottest tips.
Stay stock. change to 14 inch forged rims like VR CE28 or SSR Type C rims...
Unload EVERYTHING that moves from your car except for parking coupon, insurance and log card, keep your spare and tools if you wish, but everything else GOES OUT.
That thick carpet from 3M or the copycat heavyweight mats? remove, put the thin carpet type (original from KM - very light. or copy that's light)
keep stock airbox becos short ram will KILL your aceleration below 4,000rpm. Use a high flow drop in filiter like hurricane, or K&N, or Simota into your stock airbox.
Go do an electronic wheel alignment and wheel balancing (2 different things) to set for most economical mode.
service your brakes and handbrake to have at least 3 clicks before lock to get less friction during rotation.
reset your ECU.
MOST important of all, watch your techometer not to exceed 3,000 rpm when you accelerate from a full stop, and never FLOOR your accelerator, one quarter will already move your car quite quickly.
want to learn? come for meetup L:) many bro here will share tips wif u face to face. dun shy, we all strangers once, only united by the love of the ES.
meetup every Friday. See the sticky folder on meetup.
Freedom isn't Free, it costs people like you and me... Freedom costs a buck 'o five....
- MCDS
- Civic ES/EU/EP Moderator
- Posts: 7871
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:15 pm
- Location: Somewhere... out there.....
velocity tuner - same as the former cyclone (just different style) the principleis sound... provided your engine is poorly tuned and poorly equipped.
today's ultra-modern engine with computer sensors mapping fuel and air and resultant O2 emissions etc is already autocalibrated to max optimal depending on intnded use of the fuel map. the static item to 'swirl' the air as it flows into the combustion chamber will help a little, but not much as the computer sensors will pick up the increased volume of air, calculate the required amount of fuel required for an optimal burn, and instructs the injectors to squirt the precise amount of fuel needed to complete the combustion cycle... more air, more fuel will be pumped into the chamber...
those older cars without such sophisticated computer controlled fuel injectors, will just squirt/suck same amount of fuel, with more air, the air-fuel ratio changes, resulting in a leaner burn - more air, less fuel, and with more air, the explosion would be supposedly more efficient as it burns all the fuel leaving none behind... there are negatives for this of course, but i guess explain till here i think i at limit of my knowledge leow
suffice it to say, older engines benefit more from this contraption...
today's ultra-modern engine with computer sensors mapping fuel and air and resultant O2 emissions etc is already autocalibrated to max optimal depending on intnded use of the fuel map. the static item to 'swirl' the air as it flows into the combustion chamber will help a little, but not much as the computer sensors will pick up the increased volume of air, calculate the required amount of fuel required for an optimal burn, and instructs the injectors to squirt the precise amount of fuel needed to complete the combustion cycle... more air, more fuel will be pumped into the chamber...
those older cars without such sophisticated computer controlled fuel injectors, will just squirt/suck same amount of fuel, with more air, the air-fuel ratio changes, resulting in a leaner burn - more air, less fuel, and with more air, the explosion would be supposedly more efficient as it burns all the fuel leaving none behind... there are negatives for this of course, but i guess explain till here i think i at limit of my knowledge leow
suffice it to say, older engines benefit more from this contraption...
Freedom isn't Free, it costs people like you and me... Freedom costs a buck 'o five....
- MCDS
- Civic ES/EU/EP Moderator
- Posts: 7871
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:15 pm
- Location: Somewhere... out there.....
you can diy at no cost. just open up the fuse box and identify the engine sign - the helicopter shape at the back of your fuse box in the engine bay. open the lid and it's below the lid. if you know how to read electrical diagrams you will identify the fuse for the ECU already. Just pull out the fuse and wait a few minutes. put it back in and close the fuse box. ECU reset is done.
of course, if you scared pull the wrong fuse... just pull out one at a time the plug it back in after a few minutes lor... one at a time they all different ratings... it wud help to know that your ECU uses a 15 amp fuse (blue one with 15 inscribed on it) that should lower the number of fuses significantly
even if trial and error you will still reset your ECU...
super scared lose, just disconnect your battery negative terminal. However doing this will also reset your car's ICE settings, security settings, and alarm settings... if you dunno how to reset those, pls dun disconnect your car battery... .
of course, if you scared pull the wrong fuse... just pull out one at a time the plug it back in after a few minutes lor... one at a time they all different ratings... it wud help to know that your ECU uses a 15 amp fuse (blue one with 15 inscribed on it) that should lower the number of fuses significantly
even if trial and error you will still reset your ECU...
super scared lose, just disconnect your battery negative terminal. However doing this will also reset your car's ICE settings, security settings, and alarm settings... if you dunno how to reset those, pls dun disconnect your car battery... .
Freedom isn't Free, it costs people like you and me... Freedom costs a buck 'o five....
Does this mean if my battery totally flat, my ECU also reset? my battery was recently flat until my car radio's anti-theft lock was activated.MCDS wrote: super scared lose, just disconnect your battery negative terminal. However doing this will also reset your car's ICE settings, security settings, and alarm settings... if you dunno how to reset those, pls dun disconnect your car battery... .