Singapore Honda Club

Hi Bro

Sorry to mention this topic again as i believe it has being mentioned before somewhere. Straight to the point.

1) "Myth" 1 - Run in better to do like circuit training. Ram hard to reach 3000rpm and traval for 5 mins. Rest 15mins then another cycle. This allows the engine to reach its maximum protential. But this risk damaging the engine.

2) "Myth" 2 - First 1000k, keep below 3000rpm or 80km/h. There is a sealeant in the engine somewhere that protect is from wear and tear. Therefore better to be slow and season the parts accordingly.

According to the books, method 2 is always being the most adopted way. But is there a real technical explaination that you bro know?
Sorry newbie here need enlightedment. Thanks in advance for the help.

This one if u talk to 2 different person you will have 2 different answers.

If u ask a person playing with rc cars/planes [ yes dont laugh. Some rc engines can cost 200 to 12k do buy a engines every year? ]

Best method for nitro engines for both 4 stroke and 2 stroke is by method one. If u run with method 2 . U will not bead the pistons evenly with the cylinders and u will have a bad compression engine.A slow run in will not make the piston seal at tdc. And they are single ring pistons POWER !

The 4stroke pistons we have in our cars has oil rings.It actually safe to whack with method one as lubrication is never lost when its in motion.

I think it makes many owners feel safe with method 2. Slowly run in then start to whack.If owners use method one they wont know about the cooling down and heat cycling period. Yes method one has a lot of stress on the conrods. But u get to bead the pistons to the cylinder perfectly .Thus the heat cycle and cool down has to be completed by the book.


For me the actual critical part is the first start up.That first few hours when its fired up with new pistons is the run in for me.The 1000k or sometimes 5k even 10k some ppl would say is just to ensure that all other stuff works in the car and u can't drive 150km/h at pie.Like my buddy always said.

U happy can already

Num3ga wrote:This one if u talk to 2 different person you will have 2 different answers.

If u ask a person playing with rc cars/planes [ yes dont laugh. Some rc engines can cost 200 to 12k do buy a engines every year? ]

Best method for nitro engines for both 4 stroke and 2 stroke is by method one. If u run with method 2 . U will not bead the pistons evenly with the cylinders and u will have a bad compression engine.A slow run in will not make the piston seal at tdc. And they are single ring pistons POWER !

The 4stroke pistons we have in our cars has oil rings.It actually safe to whack with method one as lubrication is never lost when its in motion.

I think it makes many owners feel safe with method 2. Slowly run in then start to whack.If owners use method one they wont know about the cooling down and heat cycling period. Yes method one has a lot of stress on the conrods. But u get to bead the pistons to the cylinder perfectly .Thus the heat cycle and cool down has to be completed by the book.


For me the actual critical part is the first start up.That first few hours when its fired up with new pistons is the run in for me.The 1000k or sometimes 5k even 10k some ppl would say is just to ensure that all other stuff works in the car and u can't drive 150km/h at pie.Like my buddy always said.

U happy can already

OMG, thats like a technical text book explaination up there!!!
Thanks bro. Thats quite true too. I speak to 2 ppl, both of them told me different thing. Thats why eyes rolling now.
Think i wun be sticking close to method 2 nor moving far away from it. Just try to compensate on the both method if possible. First few weeks slow, then when i feels rite, step it harder a few times for a go.

all car before they get out factory when making , had a run in test liao. they shoot well over 3000rpm..

best to keep cool for new engine.

sum says good to ram to keep piston in best performance, but how about the rest? brakes engine etc.

its not all about the piston sitting in properly

=)

Hondamatic wrote:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Nice article. That is exactly the method 1 that i was talking about. But i do believe 90% of Singapore will use the "easy" break in method. The article "hard" break in method is seldom adopt.
My personal point of view, at the end of the day, no matter which method, the result we want, may it be better engine lifespan or better power, will it be significant?

My 2 cents worth of thought.

bengester wrote:

Hondamatic wrote:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Nice article. That is exactly the method 1 that i was talking about. But i do believe 90% of Singapore will use the "easy" break in method. The article "hard" break in method is seldom adopt.
My personal point of view, at the end of the day, no matter which method, the result we want, may it be better engine lifespan or better power, will it be significant?

My 2 cents worth of thought.

well.... these seal rings are the main contributory to engine problems.

lost of power, smokey exhuast, engine oil depleting are all caused by poor seal rings.

so maybe it might be worth it to find out how to break in the rings.

Hondamatic wrote:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

That has the cool down technic and heat cycle covered > Nice find !

Hondamatic wrote:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

practice it almost every morning ... after green light, vehicle accelerates, between gear 2-4, will try to hit rpm of between 7000 - 8000 (until warning light flicks)... before next traffic light, tap brake to let vehicle come to a gradual stop.

findings: engine/throttle will become more responsive.

another trick learnt from a mechanic years ago: after cold start, rev your accelerator pedal until rpm hits 6000-7000, release pedal... wait 5 seconds, perform the same action and release pedal. (note: you will feel your engine block rumble or shaking)

findings: rather effective, the only disadvantage is that you will disturb your neighbours ... bcos it's noisy ...

calvin_ wrote:well.... these seal rings are the main contributory to engine problems.
lost of power, smokey exhuast, engine oil depleting are all caused by poor seal rings.
so maybe it might be worth it to find out how to break in the rings.

Seem like the "hard" break in method do have some logic behind it. But the crude fact is has it seems hard to believe and no one in Singapore has really done it and proven it.

Cougar_23 wrote: practice it almost every morning ... after green light, vehicle accelerates, between gear 2-4, will try to hit rpm of between 7000 - 8000 (until warning light flicks)... before next traffic light, tap brake to let vehicle come to a gradual stop.
findings: engine/throttle will become more responsive.
another trick learnt from a mechanic years ago: after cold start, rev your accelerator pedal until rpm hits 6000-7000, release pedal... wait 5 seconds, perform the same action and release pedal. (note: you will feel your engine block rumble or shaking) .

OH? sounds interesting. You are actually rite, the saying that using the hard run in method, beside making the engine cleaner, more responsive engine is one of the major benifit too.

Sound like i have to really try this method of breaking in. But Singapore like no road to run up to 3000 to 4000 rpm le? sounds dangerous too. Sorry ah, i newbie driver, scare scare.

bengester wrote:
OH? sounds interesting. You are actually rite, the saying that using the hard run in method, beside making the engine cleaner, more responsive engine is one of the major benifit too.

Sound like i have to really try this method of breaking in. But Singapore like no road to run up to 3000 to 4000 rpm le? sounds dangerous too. Sorry ah, i newbie driver, scare scare.

try punggol lor. as long as you hit 4000rpm not exceeding 100km/h get caught won't lose license.

bengester wrote:
OH? sounds interesting. You are actually rite, the saying that using the hard run in method, beside making the engine cleaner, more responsive engine is one of the major benifit too.

Sound like i have to really try this method of breaking in. But Singapore like no road to run up to 3000 to 4000 rpm le? sounds dangerous too. Sorry ah, i newbie driver, scare scare.

No road to run 3/4k rpm?

Or do like me bro go plan a weekend to genting. Drive up nonstop at 130km/h average to genting..Stop at every 2 rest place for 30mins for cool down .

Park rent a room relax enjoy the air once at genting. rest 8/10 hrs sleep/gamble then drive back .

Me i just sleep at the carpark. wake up then whack again to sg. 14hrs driving 2 hours sleep my last trip...Try to drive at night. Daytime too many traffic and the heat from the sun makes u sleepy.

When driving at night dont make sudden movements. Some drivers like to overtake u from the left at 200km/h . So let them overtake u from the left....dont filter left stay in your lane.

Also if u see all the car and lorry driving slowly .. dont overtake them.The locals know where the speed traps are .

Lastly bring your rock cd collection

Num3ga wrote:dont filter left stay in your lane.

dont hog the overtaking lane!

jovlxl wrote:

Num3ga wrote:dont filter left stay in your lane.

dont hog the overtaking lane!

wat he meant was vehicle already travelling on first lane ...

if there's another vehicle very close to ya... dun filter to the left lane immediately ...

stay first lane & observe your rear mirror ... tendency is tat the rear vehicle will overtake u from the left.

it's not hogging when vehicles are travelling ~150 km/hr .. sometimes the speed just too fast & you have no reaction time esp night travelling ...

safest is to stay in the first lane

I personally use #1...
But in SG, how long yo actually keep the car? How often you service the car?
I dun think it will really matter...most of us keep cars for 5yrs or so? Some until COE expire, some 3yr sell liao...

So i guess it really doesn't matter right?
We also do servicing at least every 10k...i do it every 5k...never had a problem revving up all the way to redline on a brand new car...in fact, it's quite hard to do an A/B test between the 2 methods un less you buy 2 brand new SAME cars to test which is better right?

Just pick one method and stick to it lor...shouldn't be an issue one la...Sporeans take care of their cars so well...