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Tips for buying a 2nd hand car - No TCSS

Civic model year 1980 - 2000
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Siao_Liao
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Tips for buying a 2nd hand car - No TCSS

Post by Siao_Liao » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:04 pm

A very useful guide to most 1st timer who intend to buy an eg/ek or any 2nd hand cars.

Please note that many problems will only be evident when on the move.

It's very important that you drive - it's essential to get a feel for the car and to detect any problems. Plan to spend at least 20 minutes behind the wheel to allow enough time to check the engine's cooling system and performance.

Comfort:

Make sure that you can get into a comfortable driving position, you can reach all pedals and controls without straining and the displays are easy to see. Some seats fit some people better than others - ensure this car suits you. Check visibility - can you easily see all around you?

Dash lights:

First only turn the key far enough to make the dash lights come on. Check they all come on or flash and all the gauge needles move. If they don't, a bulb could have blown or even been removed to prevent a buyer being alerted to a problem. Be aware!

Starting:

Have a friend stand to the rear of the car with a view of the exhaust pipe to watch when you start. This is most effective when starting from cold. Thin white mist at starting is only moisture burning off. But if dark blue or black smoke comes out on starting or, worse, every time you rev the engine, oil is getting where it shouldn't in the depths of the engine. Walk away immediately.

How well does the car start? If it needs a couple of tries to get going then it at least needs some minor work on its engine electrics. If the starter motor sounds at all sluggish, the problem could just be a low battery or it could be the motor itself. Does it keep running smoothly once started?

Also check the dash lights all go out once the engine's running. Lights staying on are normally bad news.

Electrics:

Now test the toys. Let the engine idle and methodically test every switch, button and lever. Stereo: test the radio reception and try loading, playing and ejecting a CD or tape. Heater: turn it on full blast and see how hot it gets and how quickly, and also that it blows cold. Move the levers to check the air vents move and feel to check the air is coming out where it is supposed to. Check the windscreen demist function in particular. Air Con: turn it on at cold with the fan set at medium speed. A healthy air conditioning system should produce noticeably cold air within a few minutes. Keep it running while you road test the car. Be wary if the air turns from cold to warm and stays that way. While the problem might well be minor, it could mean a hefty repair bill in the near future. Seat heaters: turn them on and check they warm up.

Steering:

Before moving off, turn the wheel right and left. Is the power steering operating smoothly? Can you hear any groans from the power steering motor? You should feel almost no play in the wheel before the tyres start to turn.

Once underway, the car should respond quickly and neatly without lots of steering wheel motion. At normal speed, the car should maintain direction without constant steering corrections. If the wheel vibrates at speeds over 70kph, there could be a problem with the tyre balance or wheel alignment, which is easily fixed, or the suspension, which may not be. Look for tell-tale signs of causes of suspension damage like dents in wheel rims. Likewise, if the car constantly drifts to one side, it could just be that a tyre is underinflated, or a more serious suspension problem.

At some point, pull the car into a car park or similar open space and drive the car slowly around in a circle, with the wheels at maximum lock, in both directions. Listen for any clonking, banging or knocking from the front or through the steering wheel. If there is, the drive shaft is spoil.

Engine:

It should idle smoothly without surging or spluttering and accelerate from standstill without bucking or hesitating. When you accelerate up a hill, you shouldn't hear any pinging or clunking. Once warmed up, visible smoke from the exhaust when you rev it means the engine's tired, especially if it's blue-tinged in colour.

Clutch:

If there isn't at least an inch of play at the top of the pedal's travel, the car may soon need a new clutch. Do the 4th gear test: put it in 4th and try to pull away. The car should stall. If it doesn't, the clutch is worn. When travelling at about 70kph in 4th, accelerate hard to see if the clutch slips. Does acceleration match the revs?

Gearbox:

With an automatic box, don't confuse smoothless with slippage. When you accelerate there should be no hesitation between the engine's acceleration and the car's. If there is, it's a sure sign of wear and expensive to fix. When changing between automatic gears, reverse to drive for example, the car shouldn't jerk and there should be no clunking or heavy noises. Don't forget to check the kickdown works.

With a manual gearbox, there should be no grinding of gears or difficulty getting the car into gear with the pedal fully pressed. If the car jumps out of gear at any time, walk away, because there'll soon be big bills.

Brakes:

Find an empy stretch of road and test the brakes. Remember to warn your passengers! From a speed of around 80kph, apply the brakes hard. The car should stop straight and quickly, without vibration or pulling to one side. The pedal feel should be smooth and stopping the car shouldn't take huge effort. If the car needs heavy pressure on the brake, if not a fluid leak it could mean a faulty brake servo. Another expensive repair.

Anti-lock brakes (ABS) will transmit a rapid pulsing feel through the pedal when you push hard. You may need to find a wet piece of road to test the ABS properly.

Try two or three stops - the car should stop straight an easily each time. Then pull into a safe area, stop, and step firmly on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. If the pedal feels spongy or sinks to the floor, there may be a fluid leak in the braking system.

Look, listen & feel: at a steady speed on a smooth road, note any vibrations. You shouldn't feel any shuddering through the steering wheel, dashboard vibrations or see shaking mirrors. Try also to find a bumpy stretch of road - you are looking for a well-controlled and quiet ride. If the car bounces and hops a lot on routine bumps, it may mean the car needs new shock absorbers. Listen for a constant humming coming from the back which changes pitch with your speed. That'll mean expensive new wheel bearings.

Watch the gauges:

Keep an eye on the fuel, temperature and oil pressure gauges. Are they working? Are they reading normal levels? Watch the mileometer - is it turning? Do any warning lights come on while you're driving?

Let the owner or saleman drive you back: take this time to concentrate more on what you hear - rattles, squeaks and vibrations. They're annoying to live with and difficult to track down and fix.

Drips & leaks:

When you park again, let the car idle for a bit and check it idles smoothly and doesn't overheat. Listen for the electric fan cutting in to cool it down.

Take another look underneath at the front. Don't be alarmed if you see some water drips on a hot day. A bad sign would be any oily, green or pink drips or leaks falling onto the road. Is there any smoke coming from the exhaust?

Hope the above information make life easier for people who want some guides in buying 2nd hand car. Enjoy.
Last edited by Siao_Liao on Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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funksoulbro
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Post by funksoulbro » Sun May 03, 2009 1:31 pm

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steadymatrock
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Post by steadymatrock » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:23 am

Add in most important thing is to check all doors, wether it can closed easily and properly. Cars involved in big accident wont have the doors fit nicely. Even the bonnet and boots. look for tell tale sign.

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Mach
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doors

Post by Mach » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:09 pm

steadymatrock wrote:Add in most important thing is to check all doors, wether it can closed easily and properly. Cars involved in big accident wont have the doors fit nicely. Even the bonnet and boots. look for tell tale sign.
The shut door test may not be always true - my 2G City (Tomyam made) - can't be shut unless given a definite throw (well practiced), it's accident free then...

Let's just call it difference in quality culture between Sushi and Tom Yam :lol:

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Mach
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Post by Mach » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:12 pm

Siao Liao, thanks for your comprehensive list which is valid but requires an experienced car owner to verify. To add on to your recommendation, i'll suggest bring a trusty friend along for inspection, or better still send it to a trusted mechanic for jack up and checks that won't take more than 1/2 hr. If the agent/dealer refused, I'll say just take your money else where even if it's cheap. :roll:

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YEN96
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Chassis

Post by YEN96 » Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:09 pm

no chassis check ? :)

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danial87
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Re: Chassis

Post by danial87 » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:14 am

YEN96 wrote:no chassis check ? :)
how to check

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