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Accord DIY thread.

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oldfart
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Accord DIY thread.

Post by oldfart » Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:28 am

Teckie, show your moves. :lol:
I'm responsible for my posts and comments. I'm an individual. Call me farty if you want but not "they all" or "u all".

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CooLeh7
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DIY RSM Shift light/buzzer

Post by CooLeh7 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 4:24 pm

As most of u know, besides being a speed cut, the RSM can also function as an accurate shift light. Here is my DIY for such a feature. (Note: does not include RSM installation as that was already in my car when i bought it)

Stuff needed:

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12V Automotive relay (around $5)
12V Buzzer ($3-$4)
Led & holder (from an old pivot set, can get similar from sim lim)
Wire, crimping connectors & cable ties.

Basically you need to locate the Rev output wire from the RSM harness. Trace your cable from the RSM unit to the ECU and crimp a connector to the WHITE cable.

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Connect wires to the relay. Basically, will be taking rev output from RSM to engage a bigger signal to run shift light & buzzer.

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Power for the light & buzzer easily tapped from the cigarette lighter nearby. Earth will also be connected to complete the circuits:

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Here is the wiring diagram for the circuit:

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I tucked the buzzer under the dash (above your feet) using cable ties as it is loud enuf from there. The shift light was mounted beside the stupid cash card reader for easy viewing.

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Finally go to the setup function on the RSM and set the REV0 output to whatever RPM you want the signal to be sent i.e. your shift point!
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CooLeh7
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Poor Man's Mugen Grille

Post by CooLeh7 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 4:28 pm

To you DIY guys out there, thought I?d share my most recent project:

Dilemma ? Did not like the huge ?H? logo on the front grille. Looked at alternatives, but expensive. Personally feel that Mugen Grill in silver does not look as nice as other colours due to obvious size and shape of the mesh opening. Here?s the picture from the net that put me off the Mugen:

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With inspiration from internet pictures and our very own Batmobile, decided to do a little DIY to achieve the look I wanted.

The tools required for the job ? hi speed dremel with sanding and cutting bits, scalpel with razor edge blades, wire cutters, screwdriver, trim remover (to remove clips that hold on grille), masking tape

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Heres the stock looking grille with oversize H

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Firstly hood trim and grille was removed by popping out fastening clips on top of and below the actual grille piece.

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Picture of removed grille showing location of 4 mounting clips at the bottom of grille

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With the hi speed cutting bit, wire cutters and razor saw scalpel, the honeycomb portion of the grille was removed

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Masking tape used to mark the straight cut required top finish off the cutting job

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Cutting completed.

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Itchy so went to temporarily install back grille to see what the finished product might look like

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Completed grille layed down with emblem and wire mesh. Decided to get a broader spaced mesh to look more like the honeycomb instead of the finer mesh more commonly used. Managed to find it in powder coated black too.

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I decided to send the grille to the painters to get it sprayed silver as I didn?t want 3 different colours on the grille ? Silver trim, grey plastic and black mesh.

And the completed and installed grille?.I?m happy with it.. :D

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Cost:
Mesh Grille $20
Spray painting (optional) $60
Total $80?.
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CooLeh7
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Lose some weight - battery install

Post by CooLeh7 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 4:57 pm

Picked up a light weight battery from down under:

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This is not a gel cel like optima but a Valve Regulated Lead Acid Sealed battery. Stats are:
Odyssey PC680MLT (Made in USA)
CCA 220A
Max Pulse Amp Discharge 680A (5sec)
185(L)X79(W)X179(H)mm
Reserve 25min
Weight 7kg (0.5 kg heavier than the Feels Racing Battery)

Removed stock battery and extended stock wires using cable connectors:

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Stock battery tray was modified with L brackets and wooden pole, along with cut aluminium sheet as a base for some other electronic gizmos.:

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Base installed with wiring ready for connection:

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Completed installation:

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5885X
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Post by 5885X » Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:35 pm

First off there are two ways to do this...I'm posting the easiest way which is also the way I did it.

Heres what you are doing it will help make more sense out of stuff...the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) activates the VTEC system by sending a 12 volt signal to a solenoid. We just want to hook up a light in parallel with this solenoid and steal a little power so the light is on when VTEC is activated.

READ everything before before going and buying anything...

Materials Needed:

1) 12 volt LED bulb
2) Wire (16-18 Gauge wire, I recommend red and black to represent positive and negative)
3) T-Connectors
4) Package of 330 OHM resistors Part# 271-1113 (read below for info)

Tools Needed:

1) Wire Cutters/Crimpers/Strippers
2) Electrical Tape
3) Drill w/bits
4) Soldering Iron
those are the main things you need, I'll recommend more as I go...

**DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU AREN'T COMFERTABLE WITH WIRING**


-First thing is deciding where you wanna put the light, I put mine where the Car Alarm Indicator light goes, its the space next to the clock on the right.
You can put it really anywhere you want, you'll just have to drill a hole (size of the hole depends on the light) If you put it in the console you'll have to remove the console, if you've never done this before check around on the board there are some DIY threads on this too.

-Next after you decide where you wanna put the light, drill your hole if necessary, the light I baught from Radioshack was like 3.99 and had a "housing" with two wires on it, if you want to wait I'll get the part number and post it. I used the Car Alarm Indicator hole, just had to make it a little bigger but the light I baught clipped right in, no problems!!! I used a 1/4" bit when drilling my hole...

-disconnect the negative battery terminal, as when wiring anything-

**Below are 2 methods for connecting the wire to your "VTEC System"**

--ECU METHOD--
-After you mount your light you have to pull up the carpet in your passenger side floor board and find your ecu. This isn't really that hard, you might have to take up some of the plastic that goes around the door and the front passenger side of the car, I can't remember for sure. Once you find your ecu locate the Green wire with the Yellow stripe on it. This should be the VTEC wire, I know it was in my car, and its the same in Civics. Remember where this wire is, you'll need it later! Use the red wire you baught and connect it to the Positive wire on the LED. Now run that wire to the ECU, hiding it is easy, just tuck it under the carpet! Once you have the (+) wire ran to the ECU find the vtec (+) wire again (the green/yellow wire) and use the T-connect to splice the wire coming from the LED into the grn/ylw wire coming from the ECU. Now once you wire is connected just check your connection and make sure everything is cool!!! You don't wanna come back to this after you are done!! If everything is cool put everything back the way it was and move back to the LED.

--VTEC Solenoid Method--
-After mounting the light hook the red wire you baught up to the (+) wire on the LED. Run this wire through your firewall and to your VTEC Solenoid, hiding it is up to you (I used the other method). If you've ever wired an amp or anything, you'll know how to hide it!!! Once you reach the VTEC Solenoid T-Connect into the Green wire with the White stripe, once again this is the wire it should be and is on most cases, but might not be, I don't know for sure. Once the wire is connected go back to you LED...

-After connecting the (+) wire from your LED to your VTEC source its time to ground the LED. This will be where the black cable comes in. The First time I did this I grounded my light to the screw that holds the glove box on. When I put my new CD player in though I grounded my LED to the ground wire on my CD player this is easier and works just as well. Once your LED is grounded thats it. Make sure all your connections are correct and tight, electrical tape does the trick in helping secure any connection and if you are good with wiring I'd recomend using a Soldering Iron connecting the LED to the (+) and (-) wires leading out.

**NOTE** I can't remember if I used a resistor or not, but I remember the DIY I read suggesting using a resistor...if you want to use one solder it to the end of the ground coming out of the LED and to the beginning of the ground wire going to your ground location.

Okay assuming you wired all your stuff right, and its got a good connection, you should be ready to go. Keep in mind that you won't be able to just turn your car on and rev it up...VTEC WILL NOT ENGAGE

There are a few factors that have to be right for VTEC to engage...just take it for a ride, get on it a little bit, get the car warmed up nicely, then open it up. Hopefully when your VTEC engages you will have a pretty little light lookin you in the eyes!!!

I hope all this makes sense, its really the first DIY I've typed up...if your confused by this I might be able to find the old DIY I had when I installed mine, or just post questions on here and I might be able to answer them!

Becareful and don't cut anywires that are exisiting in your car now...thats not ever good lol

**I'm not responsable for anything you screw up when doing this...work at you own risk!** If you don't think you can find the stuff you need to do this PM me and I'll buy it for you and make a "kit" all you'll have to do is plug it up...
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cl7teckie
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Post by cl7teckie » Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:04 am

For the VTEC indicator for CL7 /CM4/5. The better one is from the ECU. The cable is pin 6 on connector B(24P). It is the second furthest connector from the cabin. Pin 6 is on the top row. Just expose the copper, and tap from there.

For CL7R, I believe the better one is using the VTEC pressure switch. This is Pin 11 on the same connector. It is a positive feedback from the engine indicating that the rocker mechanism has been moved to hi-lift mode.

The 330ohms resistor is on the low side, and may blow some high efficiency LED available these days. Anything between 330ohms to 1kohms is fine, as long as the brightness of the LED is comfortable to your liking. You may want to even use one of the control line to kick in bright/dim mode for day and night. 1k for dim, 470ohm for bright.

I have done this "mod", with a few photo. If someone want to host the picture, pls PM me his email.
Pls dont ask me for wkshop, as I know none...I only know it is safer and faster to fix cars on my own.

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fatelmo
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Re: Accord DIY thread.

Post by fatelmo » Sat Aug 22, 2009 3:43 pm

Courtesy of tony_CL7R

ound this on www.tsxclub.com, it's works........

The climate control unit has a diagnostic mode that allows you to view sensor inputs that it receives. To run the sensor input display mode:

1. Turn the ignition switch off.
2. Press and hold both AUTO and DUAL buttons, and start the engine.
3. After the engine starts, release both buttons.
4. The audio-HVAC display will flash a sensor number, then value for the sensor.
5. To adavnce to the next sensor, press the rear window defogger button.
6. To cancel this mode, press AUTO, or turn off ignition.

Sensor numbers, descriptions, and display values as follows:

1. In-car temp (degrees C).
2. Outside temp (C).
3. Solar radiation sensor value (00=dark, 10=cloudy, 65=sunny).
4. Engine coolant temp (C).
5. Evaporator outlet air temp (C).
6. Driver's air mix opening (low=cool, high=warm, %).
7. Passenger's air mix opening (low=cool, high=warm, %).
8. Vehicle speed (km/h).
9. Vent temp air out (C).
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junning
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TSB #04027 -- AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY MODULE IS DIM OR DARK

Post by junning » Wed May 05, 2010 6:12 pm

Hi fatelmo,

Thank you!

Here's the link for HU removal:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/561772/3

For the very first trial at dismantling, it took me 30mins. You've to start from the gear shift garnish and remove the console box. Understand that you've an aftermarket HU, not sure if it will be tedious to remove:
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The tricky part is the aircon duct top panel which is very tightly secured by a metal clip just below the hazard light switch (you can notice the rectangular gap above the LCD screen panel which hold the clip). I pried too hard and the screw pry marks are still there on the dash. To prevent those marks, perhaps you can try inserting your fingers in the windscreen vent holes at the front most end of the aircon duct panel then try pulling hard towards you.
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Some pictures of the Panasonic HU:
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rofy
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fuel filter replacement for CL7

Post by rofy » Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:10 pm

DIY fuel filter replacement for CL7

Fuel filter part no: 16010-SEA-010
When buying the fuel filter, pls double check that the filter part no is correct for your car model. Think it might be different for CM models.
The fuel filter is the white part which is obvious looking at the attached picture.
There might be some minor details differing in the following steps as I am writing this based on memory after doing this DIY.
From step 10 onwards, the steps can be varied as according to your preferences, as long as you understand what needs to be done and removed.
Also it's good to take some pictures along the way so that you can refer back if necessary.

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Note: BE careful not to let any dust or dirt into the fuel tank while opening the fuel cover.
1. Open boot. Use some large cloth clippers to hold up the boot floor board to the top of boot opening.
2. Look for round opening which is closest to back seat. 3 screws to unscrew and open the top cover(TC).
3. Unclip the electricial connector and fuel piping and loosen the nuts seen on the circumference of fuel tank cover(FTC). Clean the surface as necessary to keep clear of dirt and dust.
4. Prepare some cloth to lay surrounding the opening as there will be some fuel split when taking out the fuel pump.
5. Loosen the fuel tank cover (will be stuck after so long) and carefully pull out the fuel pump which is attached to the cover. Turn/angle the fuel pump sideways for the fuel tank gauge to clear the fuel tank hole.
6. Looking at the area near the top cover, unclip the 2 electrical connectors and the black fuel pipe connector to the filter side. Use some small flat screwdriver to help in unclipping.
7. Also unclip the small wire connector attached to the silver thing at the lower area which is the fuel regulator(FR). There is a small button in the middle, push and hold to remove the connector. Do not just try to pull, you will risk damaging the connector.
8. Shift the wiring out of the holders and loosen as much as possible.
9. Looking at the fuel gauge found at the bottom, hold the gray plastic surrounding the fuel gauge, turn slightly anticlockwise to disengage a small locking tab and push to the left. It shld come out.
10. Remove the silver fuel requlator(FR) by first taking out the clipper which is used to hold the FR in position. Then carefully pull out the FR, this can be done by using a small flat screwdriver to pry at the side to help in removing, accessing through the side slots surrounding the FR. Take your time not to damage the FR.
11. Unclip the 4 tabs on the old filter and slide out carefully, separating from the fuel tank cover.
12. Next unclip the 3 tabs on the bottom and carefully pull out the fuel pump.
13. There are 4 new rubber seals, 2 same size for the fuel filter holes found at the top, and 2 different size for the FR. Replace the seals for the FR and fuel filter.
14. Put back the FR,with the black plastic on the other side facing upwards like wearing a cap. Note that there is a small hole at the side(not the hole in the middle), this hole needs to face downwards. The FR should be able to go back in without too much force, just double check again if not sure.
15. Remember to put back the clip which holds the FR in position.
16. Slide on the new filter over the fuel pump and after that slide back onto the TC.
17. Put back the fuel gauge onto the new fuel filter.
18. Reconnect all the connectors and wirings back ino the wiring holders as neccessary.
19. Reverse the steps when putting the fuel pump back into the tank, and before covering the top cover(TC), turn engine to start position without starting to check for any fuel leaking from the external fuel pipe connector to the fuel tank cover. If no leakage, start engine to check that everything is normal.
20. All ok then screw back on TC and you are done.

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My car is slightly below 100000km. Short of opening up the old filter to actually see how dirty it is inside, it looks still servicable though. The old filter doesn't seem to be too dirty compared to the new filter visually. Maybe a good time to replace would be 100-120k km.

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