Singapore Honda Club

7Marlboroman wrote:Joon or zippyalex, can use cable tie to secure the heatshield together instead of glue?

Yes, if you want a FUGLY heatshield. No lah, you dun do that. i show you how lah, get some shoe glue.

zippyalex wrote:

7Marlboroman wrote:Joon or zippyalex, can use cable tie to secure the heatshield together instead of glue?

Yes, if you want a FUGLY heatshield. No lah, you dun do that. i show you how lah, get some shoe glue.

thanks. i'll get some.

DIRT22 wrote:Okay guys a correction on my post above, it should read "you SHOULD try to drain out all the old ATF when replacing with a new type ATF" and not the way I posted.....sallah never check properly, got extra "not" there....

is it v. tough to flush out the atf?
i might get a bottle of honda atf to flush out the rest then i'll put in the torco ones.

zippyalex wrote:

joon wrote:for jye's CVT took about 3.4L.. i think most honda conventional autos take about 4L.. for the HKS that's going to be $200 in fluids alone.. if you want a slightly cheaper alternative, you can try the Torco fully synth that me & zippy (still?) are using.. it's about $30 a litre

Yup, still running on torco. its $29/l. If anybro gonna do a flush (pls do so every 40K) then remember to by your own cheap cheap ATF for the flushing. The machine uses 15l of ATF to flush, i threw away $150 worth of monies into the drain. Get the honda ATF at $6.50/l, that will save you $52.50! Use that for another tank of petrol to enjoy, dun waste money!

Oh, torco shifts pretty well cmpared to my previous honda, Redline, Oil Extreme, and OWS ATF. Whatever you pour into the GB, just remember that heat kills our AT, so pls change oil regularly.

bro,
where to get the torco atf?

Phuturist wrote: is it v. tough to flush out the atf?
i might get a bottle of honda atf to flush out the rest then i'll put in the torco ones.

Its not hard, but not all workshops have the equipment. Why do you need a bottle of honda atf to flush out the rest?

Phuturist wrote:s it v. tough to flush out the atf?
i might get a bottle of honda atf to flush out the rest then i'll put in the torco ones.

haha ok let's get a few things sorted out

joe and i we've discussed this at length many many times.. when people say "FLUSH ATF".. there are 2 meanings:

Method 1. Drain-and-Fill just open the 3/4" drain plug at the bottom of the transmission and let the ATF flow out.. similar to changing engine oil.. you'll have to take out the ATF dipstick, since there's no filler cap to relieve the pressure.. all in all prob will take about 15-20mins to drain out all the ATF.. after all the ATF has drained out, replace the drain plug, fill up the trans from the dipstick hole and you're done

Method 2. Machine Flush hookup the output and return lines from the trans to a special ATF flushing machine (it looks like a washing machine ).. not too many workshops in sg have it, but the better ones do e.g. LimTan (joe, Ed has to pay us ad fees bloody hell ) basically this machine pumps about 12-14L of ATF thru your transmission.. loosening any clogged particles and basically giving the internals a scrub bath.. takes about 2 hours for the whole job.. labour is cheap since all you do is basically hookup the machine.. BUT the 12-14L of ATF will empty your wallet

now Method 2 is controvesial.. because it does stress the internals of the transmission by applying external pressure to force the ATF thru the trans, if you do it too often, the internal vanes/seals will be damaged.. it was invented because dumbass drivers (90% of sg ppl) who drive auto cars just put it in D and drive the car into the ground, never thinking that a car isn't like a household appliance.. cars require constant maintenance.. so assuming you after the warranty from KAH expires you cheap out on ATF and don't change it for say 5 years (after all, you gotta take your own initiate for servicing).. there will be alot of debris inside the transmission which a normal drain-and-fill (Method 1) won't be able to remove.. i've seen Ed flush an EG auto, the ATF was black like crude oil ..

when i bought over this 6 year old car.. i sent it for Method 2 flushing as a precautionary measure, since i didn't know how often the fella serviced his car.. after which i don't intend to use Method 2 again..

if you change ATF on a regular basis, you'll never need to use Method 2

Hi Joon, 'regular basis' meaning at 20000km interval for mineral ATF? What abt synthetic ATF?

Thanks.

joon wrote:

Phuturist wrote:s it v. tough to flush out the atf?
i might get a bottle of honda atf to flush out the rest then i'll put in the torco ones.

haha ok let's get a few things sorted out

joe and i we've discussed this at length many many times.. when people say "FLUSH ATF".. there are 2 meanings:

Method 1. Drain-and-Fill just open the 3/4" drain plug at the bottom of the transmission and let the ATF flow out.. similar to changing engine oil.. you'll have to take out the ATF dipstick, since there's no filler cap to relieve the pressure.. all in all prob will take about 15-20mins to drain out all the ATF.. after all the ATF has drained out, replace the drain plug, fill up the trans from the dipstick hole and you're done

Method 2. Machine Flush hookup the output and return lines from the trans to a special ATF flushing machine (it looks like a washing machine ).. not too many workshops in sg have it, but the better ones do e.g. LimTan (joe, Ed has to pay us ad fees bloody hell ) basically this machine pumps about 12-14L of ATF thru your transmission.. loosening any clogged particles and basically giving the internals a scrub bath.. takes about 2 hours for the whole job.. labour is cheap since all you do is basically hookup the machine.. BUT the 12-14L of ATF will empty your wallet

now Method 2 is controvesial.. because it does stress the internals of the transmission by applying external pressure to force the ATF thru the trans, if you do it too often, the internal vanes/seals will be damaged.. it was invented because dumbass drivers (90% of sg ppl) who drive auto cars just put it in D and drive the car into the ground, never thinking that a car isn't like a household appliance.. cars require constant maintenance.. so assuming you after the warranty from KAH expires you cheap out on ATF and don't change it for say 5 years (after all, you gotta take your own initiate for servicing).. there will be alot of debris inside the transmission which a normal drain-and-fill (Method 1) won't be able to remove.. i've seen Ed flush an EG auto, the ATF was black like crude oil ..

when i bought over this 6 year old car.. i sent it for Method 2 flushing as a precautionary measure, since i didn't know how often the fella serviced his car.. after which i don't intend to use Method 2 again..

if you change ATF on a regular basis, you'll never need to use Method 2

WOW!
thks for the superb info again bro joon,
ok so in that case I can juz buy the torco ATF and bring it down to drain and refill?
so far changed atf only once, abt 3 mths back, that's cos of my accident hehe
if i install the atf cooler, does it affect the draining/refilling of the atf afterwards?
thks!

alan wrote:Hi Joon, 'regular basis' meaning at 20000km interval for mineral ATF? What abt synthetic ATF?

Thanks.

20K is the recommended service interval for Honda ZL-1.. for synthetics, stick to the same service interval.. it's gona cost you about 4 times more, but that's the price you pay if you wana drive a modded automatic car

Phuturist wrote:WOW!
thks for the superb info again bro joon,
ok so in that case I can juz buy the torco ATF and bring it down to drain and refill?
so far changed atf only once, abt 3 mths back, that's cos of my accident hehe
if i install the atf cooler, does it affect the draining/refilling of the atf afterwards?
thks!

you don't attach the ATF cooler to the dipstick hole or the drain plug do you? no it wouldn't affect your drain-and-fill at all, it's a completely different routing

you'll need to buy the stainless clamps, hoses.. etc for the ATF installation.. if you wana do Jye's style, you'll need some pre-drilled steel L-brackets, can get from any hardware shop

read pg130 of <modding EK4A..> for more details http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... start=1935

joon wrote: you don't attach the ATF cooler to the dipstick hole or the drain plug do you? no it wouldn't affect your drain-and-fill at all, it's a completely different routing

you'll need to buy the stainless clamps, hoses.. etc for the ATF installation.. if you wana do Jye's style, you'll need some pre-drilled steel L-brackets, can get from any hardware shop

read pg130 of <modding EK4A..> for more details http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... start=1935

VSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSD......etc......

thepukster wrote:

joon wrote: you don't attach the ATF cooler to the dipstick hole or the drain plug do you? no it wouldn't affect your drain-and-fill at all, it's a completely different routing

you'll need to buy the stainless clamps, hoses.. etc for the ATF installation.. if you wana do Jye's style, you'll need some pre-drilled steel L-brackets, can get from any hardware shop

read pg130 of <modding EK4A..> for more details http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... start=1935

VSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSD......etc......

spoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoon...times 1million times...

AliasR wrote:

thepukster wrote: VSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSDVSD......etc......

spoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoonspoon...times 1million times...

OperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSSOperateSS... times 1million plus 1.....

went to check out the 95 ES again.. 1st time i saw the spoon calipers close up.. man he's only got 1mm clearance to the spoke of his rims.. MINUS points man.. he either doesn't know what he's doing, or is too cheap to run spacers -> i'd want at least a 4mm gap so that any stone chips caught into the wheel cylinder won't chip my precious 2K calipers.. i already have 2 chips on my prelude's already

hesitant to respray my calipers tho'.. but when i do pass them on, i'll sand off the paint so the new fella can spray whatever colour he wants haha

1mm clearance?? and now..do u think he knows his stuffs well?? hahaha...
juz for cosmetic purpose only..as if he will care if there's enough allowance in between!
and one more pete...vsd concept really goes well wif ur three b/f...hehehe..