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HONDA AIRWAVE

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most68
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Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2012
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HONDA AIRWAVE

Postby most68 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 4:50 pm

HI All ,

Planning to renew my airwave COE for 5 years .

Myl 250k

Which engine parts need to replace it ?

can advice me , Thanks !

StreamZRSZ
2000rpm
2000rpm
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017

Re: HONDA AIRWAVE

Postby StreamZRSZ » Thu Oct 19, 2017 5:27 am

you may wish to take note some of the important parts that can consider replacing them if you have not done so yet.

1) absorbers front and back together with complete mounting sets
2) water pump, timing belt (if yours is on belt), tensioner bearing, thermostats, top and bottom rubber hoses
3)complete set of engine mountings
4) low arm bushings (if you experience undercarriage sound)
5) tie rods/ stabilizer links
6)top head gasket seals ( if leaking) and any other applicable seals that is worn
7) flush brake fluid
8) replace hydralic power steering oil ( if yours is not electric type)
9)idle pulley
10) beltings (aircon, power steering, alternator)
11) Radiator fan motors
12) Radiator
13) flush and replace coolant
14) gearbox ATF/CVVT oil
15) wheel bearings (if they are worn)
16) check brake pads (if worn)

above are just my suggestions. hope it helps

Civic2006FD4
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2017

Re: HONDA AIRWAVE

Postby Civic2006FD4 » Thu Nov 30, 2017 9:48 am

Get a good and reliable mechanic to check and inspect your vehicle and test out the suspicious parts before changing. Run away from workshops and mechanics that trying to cheat ur $$, be wise to do some research and homework. Go YouTube plenty of videos showing u how to DIY diagnose. Don’t throw money to change parts unnecessarily. Sometimes changing for the sake of changing would create other problems too especially for older car eg. I changed my transmission oil seals (of course due to leakage) in the process of taking out my drive shaft where they need to hammer it hard to get it out, caused my outer C.V.- joint to jam up/stuck causing my steering to pull to one side, after troubleshooting for 2 days managed to pin point the issue and change a drive shaft cost me some$$. According to the mechanic that shouldn’t had happened but it did!
So Keep the $$ for rainy days.

Not recommended to flush the engine or transmission, one might also ended up with some serious problems especially for older car. It all depends on your car’s service history. Eg. if everytime engine oil(EO) or ATF change the fluid comes out thick,dark and dirty and have burnt smell meaning the internal already have substantial worn and wearing is taking place, flushing is a No No. modern EO have additives to “seal” the worn so car can last longer, chemical use in engine flush product or accessive flushing of ATF may remove the “seal” or clutch material in e gear box which can cause the engine to emit white smoke and transmission clutch to slip, just more frequently oil change will prolong this engine’s or geafbox’s life, bring the oils change schedule earlier will do. Contrary if every time oils change was little brown(EO) and reddish(ATF) then their internals are healthy and this is my case. Just regular Oils change will do.

My Civic FD now at 11th yo 180+k km, still running like a champ, no big issue so far. Just proper maintenance will do.

Do regular checks on the engine-transmission mountings, suspension(absorbers, control arms), rubber boots, bushings, ball joints for sign of cracks and worn.

Check absorbers, engines, gearbox for sign of oil leakage due to bad o-rings or gasket (do it regularly when ur car is jack up high enough eg. Oils or tyre change), remember to check the inner side which always be hidden and neglected.

If your car has rough idling, bad FC or sluggish pick up and had never cleaned the throttle body-TB (butterfly valve) then it is time to do it. 2 types of:
1. Be extra careful with
***Electronic TB(modern car with drive-by-wire) - need extra care, be sure to get a professional or mechanics w sound knowledge to clean it. Improper way of cleaning will have irreversible damage and costly to replace a ETB.
2. Drive-by-cable TB with Idle Air Control Valve-ICA (older car) cleaning is much easier and safer and hard to mess up.
- again do some research first.

Basic and must change the engine oil and ATF regularly your engine and gear box will last very long and trouble free, anything else is just wear and tear. Oil change for City drive car recommended every 5-8k km. For Highway drive car 10-15k km both scenarios with fully synthetic(really good and branded one). If u r using other non-branded synthetic, semi synthetic or mineral oil then 5k km. Fyi I change my EO every 5k km.

My list of vital parts to be changed so that the car wld not die on e road trip respective to thier life span) are:

1. Radiator fan & air con fan motors (80-100k)

2. Timing Belts If have (80-100k), timing chain can last very very long usually wld not snap. If getting louder like an old taxi then u might want to consider to replace.

3. Fuel pump & strainer/filter (400k)
- if one always run of out fuel, always on extreme low level will shorten life span of fuel pump, fuel pump become weak. Always keep my fuel at leat 1/4 tank.

4. Starter (if u have difficulty starting then need to isolate battery, fuel pump, ignition coils or spark plugs), u can self recover by knocking slightly on e starter & the car start right after knocking(tapping) e starter w spanner then you need to change. Tapping is only a short term solution.

5. Alternator - get a cheap volt meter plug in ur 12v socket, when idling good alternator should give 13.8-14.6V anything stays below or above is bad for the battery life. When engine off key turn to on position if meter reads 11.8V and below meaning ur battery becoming weak or ur alternator charging efficiency has dropped.

Till then, Happy driving with proper maintenance and your car will thank you and last for a very long time.


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