Airwave GearBOX!!
Airwave jerks
Hi Bro,
got the rubber grommet and PCV valve at Ang Brothers at Blk 24 Sin Ming Rd.
I changed the part DIY. Its easy but I can help you to do it. My HP : 96808264.
The job requires air box removal for access, take around 30 mins to complete.
The part is pretty standard amongst Jap cars.
You can see the image at ebay, just type Honda PCV, its the straight one, not the L shape.
Sorry lah, just joined the forum, but my IT skills a little lacking, not so sure how to upload pics.
Cheers
got the rubber grommet and PCV valve at Ang Brothers at Blk 24 Sin Ming Rd.
I changed the part DIY. Its easy but I can help you to do it. My HP : 96808264.
The job requires air box removal for access, take around 30 mins to complete.
The part is pretty standard amongst Jap cars.
You can see the image at ebay, just type Honda PCV, its the straight one, not the L shape.
Sorry lah, just joined the forum, but my IT skills a little lacking, not so sure how to upload pics.
Cheers
Re: Airwave jerks
Bro, saw your post on how you solve your kicking sensation or even engine stall during moving off from a stop. I am having exactly the same problem like many others which I saw on the forum. I have tried to contact you via SMS but did not hear from you. I really need your help to do this. Please drop me a text at 9119 1107 and let me know how much you charge to change the PCV valve and the rubber. I can buy the parts from your recommended place and drive to your place to do this job. Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks!jengwe wrote:Hi Bro,
got the rubber grommet and PCV valve at Ang Brothers at Blk 24 Sin Ming Rd.
I changed the part DIY. Its easy but I can help you to do it. My HP : 96808264.
The job requires air box removal for access, take around 30 mins to complete.
The part is pretty standard amongst Jap cars.
You can see the image at ebay, just type Honda PCV, its the straight one, not the L shape.
Sorry lah, just joined the forum, but my IT skills a little lacking, not so sure how to upload pics.
Cheers
problem during pickup - Getting the kicking sensation
Hi all, just to share with you guys. I have already resolve the problem on the kicking sensation during moving off from a stop or pick up again after slow down. I used to have this problem for the past few months and getting more and more obvious recently. After reading the forum, then only I realise many others are also having this problem. However, I am lucky to found Jengwe on this forum. He had help me to resolve this problem totally. If you read on Jengwe forum, he suggested to change the rubber grommet and PCV valve. This is actuall to resolve the unstable idling which many of us should face this probelm as well. As for my problem, Jengwe had suggest to charge one of the ignition coil and he also help me to adjust all the spark plug gap. And that's it! Is done! problem resolve, my car is very smooth now during moving off from a stop or pickup from a slow down due to hump. Jengwe is really amazing and he is really the engineer for airwave. Thanks Bro, really appreciate your help and advice.
Hi Sam
Really happy that your problem has been resolved and you are enjoying your car once again. This seems to be a case of rough idle and pickup due to ignition problems.
To all those reading this, don't straight away think gearbox but slowly work up the cost cum complexicity chain. Think Air Filter, PCV, A/C gas, Sparks, Ignition Coil, IAC valve, EGR valve in that order. Gear box is quite far down if CVT-F has been changed regularly around every 20-30k. I have also check that although HMMF is labelled at my tranny dipstick, I have been using Honda CVT-F since 30k.
Anyway, just to add further, Honda recommends that the Spark Plug gap be set from 1.0-1.1mm. Check that gap every 20k.
PCV valve change every 40k, also check condition of rubber grommet. A sure tell-tale sign of a vacuum leak from this location is the build up of grime around the otherwise yellow colour original PCV valve (P/N 17130-PWA-003), but a similar PCV valve from Honda is also applicable.
Sam's vehicle had to also change his A/C condenser fan and also low in A/C gas.
Both fans should come on at the same time, if not, the fan is gone. Check the A/C sight glass, when the A/C is on, it should look like clear water flowing through, if you spot bubbles, A/C gas is low.
As for the iginition coil, remove all 4 to check condition of the rubber insert, original is red in colour while some may be blue. The rubber inserts on all 4 should be evenly discoloured with some white spots (the white spots are due to oxides from the spring contact). If any of the iginition coils show a colour difference and brownish stains, there is a problem with that particular spark plug. In Sam's case, the spark plug was loose and hot gas was slowly burning the ignition coil. This will cause premature failure of the coil.
I also found that Sam's Denso iridium sparks, IK20L had enlarged gaps due to the erosion of the iridium tip. It was over 1.3mm wide. Although Iridium, the tip will gradually wear and the gaps have to be adjusted. I personally have used 1 set of plugs to 200k on my previous Mazda Protege by constantly gapping at every 20k intervals.
The spark plug gap is simply adjusted by tapping the bent electrode on a hard surface gently and measuring using my1.1mm spectacles screw driver as a "Go" gauge.
Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed myself doing the repairs and imparting the DIY skills to Sam and seeing the satisfaction beaming all over his face when his "jerking " problem was resolved.
Sam was confident enough later to change out his spoilt A/C fan motor all by himself.
Cheers and Hi-5
Looking forward to another Airwave clinic during weekends. My HP : 96808264
Just remember that Ang Bros closes by 1530hrs on Sat and we need to place orders latest by 11am if parts need to be changed.
I am not an Ang Bros salesman (so please don't get me wrong), but he has been the nicest stockist in my area to me, who takes the trouble to get me the parts quickly and passes me the parts manual readily upon request.
Really happy that your problem has been resolved and you are enjoying your car once again. This seems to be a case of rough idle and pickup due to ignition problems.
To all those reading this, don't straight away think gearbox but slowly work up the cost cum complexicity chain. Think Air Filter, PCV, A/C gas, Sparks, Ignition Coil, IAC valve, EGR valve in that order. Gear box is quite far down if CVT-F has been changed regularly around every 20-30k. I have also check that although HMMF is labelled at my tranny dipstick, I have been using Honda CVT-F since 30k.
Anyway, just to add further, Honda recommends that the Spark Plug gap be set from 1.0-1.1mm. Check that gap every 20k.
PCV valve change every 40k, also check condition of rubber grommet. A sure tell-tale sign of a vacuum leak from this location is the build up of grime around the otherwise yellow colour original PCV valve (P/N 17130-PWA-003), but a similar PCV valve from Honda is also applicable.
Sam's vehicle had to also change his A/C condenser fan and also low in A/C gas.
Both fans should come on at the same time, if not, the fan is gone. Check the A/C sight glass, when the A/C is on, it should look like clear water flowing through, if you spot bubbles, A/C gas is low.
As for the iginition coil, remove all 4 to check condition of the rubber insert, original is red in colour while some may be blue. The rubber inserts on all 4 should be evenly discoloured with some white spots (the white spots are due to oxides from the spring contact). If any of the iginition coils show a colour difference and brownish stains, there is a problem with that particular spark plug. In Sam's case, the spark plug was loose and hot gas was slowly burning the ignition coil. This will cause premature failure of the coil.
I also found that Sam's Denso iridium sparks, IK20L had enlarged gaps due to the erosion of the iridium tip. It was over 1.3mm wide. Although Iridium, the tip will gradually wear and the gaps have to be adjusted. I personally have used 1 set of plugs to 200k on my previous Mazda Protege by constantly gapping at every 20k intervals.
The spark plug gap is simply adjusted by tapping the bent electrode on a hard surface gently and measuring using my1.1mm spectacles screw driver as a "Go" gauge.
Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed myself doing the repairs and imparting the DIY skills to Sam and seeing the satisfaction beaming all over his face when his "jerking " problem was resolved.
Sam was confident enough later to change out his spoilt A/C fan motor all by himself.
Cheers and Hi-5
Looking forward to another Airwave clinic during weekends. My HP : 96808264
Just remember that Ang Bros closes by 1530hrs on Sat and we need to place orders latest by 11am if parts need to be changed.
I am not an Ang Bros salesman (so please don't get me wrong), but he has been the nicest stockist in my area to me, who takes the trouble to get me the parts quickly and passes me the parts manual readily upon request.
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New baby to Honda ðŸ
Re: Airwave GearBOX!!
If can have help, really appreciated & any convenience caused, regretted.
I've change my PCV and rubber grommet after reading about bro jengwe issue.The PCV and rubber grommet I got from M'sia spare parts shop was not the original item,with some minor mod I was able to make it fit to my ride,a Honda city 3G vtec CVT.I would say that it's not easy to DIY change out the PCV, one will need proper tools and a lot of patient.After the PCV change I still encounter the kicking issue on my car,but bro jengwe just never let me down.After reading that he actually help bro Sam to solve the problem,I will continue troubleshoot until the problem resolved.I really appreciate Bro jengwe knowledge sharing,atleast he let me know that our PCV need to be change every 40k, and encouragement to all the forumers here to DIY fixing our ride.
Hi Bro JengWe,
Maybe you could do a video clip of the PCV change and load it on the forum for our reference.
Also, this will benefit all Airwavers that are staying far from Sin Ming.
Just my 2cts.....
I would love to solve this issue too though mine is still bearable but if it can be solve by changing the PCV at the cost that you mentioned, why not!?
I love to DIY on my car.
Cheers'
Smunkc
2007 Dec Airwave
105kKM
Maybe you could do a video clip of the PCV change and load it on the forum for our reference.
Also, this will benefit all Airwavers that are staying far from Sin Ming.
Just my 2cts.....
I would love to solve this issue too though mine is still bearable but if it can be solve by changing the PCV at the cost that you mentioned, why not!?
I love to DIY on my car.
Cheers'
Smunkc
2007 Dec Airwave
105kKM
its not just the PCV, there are other things too
Hi all,
ts been 9 months, I have mentioned quite a few months back that its not just the PCV but a combination of a few other devices.
Please read my other posts or contact me. If you read, you will know how to. If you like to jump the gun, please find a mech and not me.
I want to teach ppl how to resolve the problem and not solve it for them. I appreciate understanding and not expectation.
ts been 9 months, I have mentioned quite a few months back that its not just the PCV but a combination of a few other devices.
Please read my other posts or contact me. If you read, you will know how to. If you like to jump the gun, please find a mech and not me.
I want to teach ppl how to resolve the problem and not solve it for them. I appreciate understanding and not expectation.
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- 1000rpm
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:26 pm
I have this problem also. And this only happen in the morning or when cold engine. After driving for a while and engine is warmed up, this problem will go away. My airwave is 6.5 years old. 184K km
When stopped at traffic lights. THe brake are being pressed. The gear will disengaged.
WHen release the brakes, the gear will be in neutral. Will have to let go brake and let the car engage itself, then slowly step on the accelerator. If stepped a bit more, there will be a hard knock like the gear box is "jumping".
How I solve this problem (temp)?
1. Shift the gear to neutral when stop at traffic lights.
2. Engage to D drive just before the light turn green. The gear will engage smoothly. This has to be combine with light stepping of the brake pedal.
3. Step on the brake pedal just enough to keep the car from moving. This will not dis-engage the gear.
4. Do not step hard on the accelerator pedal for moving off, after being stationery.
5. Do not stop at a slope. Stop at the bottom of the ramp. Wait for the car in front to move off first.
All these are temp actions to prolong the gear box.
In the end, the gear box have to be overhaul
When stopped at traffic lights. THe brake are being pressed. The gear will disengaged.
WHen release the brakes, the gear will be in neutral. Will have to let go brake and let the car engage itself, then slowly step on the accelerator. If stepped a bit more, there will be a hard knock like the gear box is "jumping".
How I solve this problem (temp)?
1. Shift the gear to neutral when stop at traffic lights.
2. Engage to D drive just before the light turn green. The gear will engage smoothly. This has to be combine with light stepping of the brake pedal.
3. Step on the brake pedal just enough to keep the car from moving. This will not dis-engage the gear.
4. Do not step hard on the accelerator pedal for moving off, after being stationery.
5. Do not stop at a slope. Stop at the bottom of the ramp. Wait for the car in front to move off first.
All these are temp actions to prolong the gear box.
In the end, the gear box have to be overhaul
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- 1000rpm
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:26 pm
airwave city jazz and fit honda
Airwave should use hmmf instead of the wrong cvtf! As aw is a exported jdm car all using multmatic hearbox