ignis has a shorter wheelbase so naturally it feels nippier as opposed to sedans....Cvics(EF,EGs EK hatchbacks) are supposed to handle better than ignis in stock trim mainly cos of suspension design...ignis is torison beam suspension which isnt that good as abit el-cheapo IMO compared to independent struts all round...rango wrote:thanks for the input....my experience a few years ago when i drove a suzuki ignis sport this was a test drive from agent with a stock ride...that car the agent purposely take me near paya lebar airport there where got winding road...tat car stick to the road like glue....i feel very confident when going round corner or bend at hi speed...but with my ek i do not feel confident when go round corner at high speed or when playing on road like old thomson road...Emperorcivic wrote:I don see a problem with slight serve.
Coilovers are meant to REDUCE bodyroll.
With Strut bars, the roll is controlled.
I mean correct me if i'm wrong, even if u re running on the best set of coils, there is such to be bodyroll.
its jus that it is minimal.
But that doesnt mean body roll is not good. Pros and cons.
Thats is why, there is such invention called bucket seats. =D
even if u re on 4 bars as suspension, u will still experience roll.
or maybe u might wanna elaborate more on ur problem u re facing?
maybe its normal cos ek more of a track car compared to the ignis which design for those rally like wrx evo....etc...
Question on handling...
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grandpa-VTEC
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Speeding has never Killed anyone....suddenly becoming stationary is what Kills you ---- jeremy Clarkson
i guess so makes sense....at that time i was seriously considering the ignis...was going to pay bout 60k for it brand new....blessing in disguise...ended up with my cheapo...ek4a....grandpa-VTEC wrote:ignis has a shorter wheelbase so naturally it feels nippier as opposed to sedans....Cvics(EF,EGs EK hatchbacks) are supposed to handle better than ignis in stock trim mainly cos of suspension design...ignis is torison beam suspension which isnt that good as abit el-cheapo IMO compared to independent struts all round...rango wrote:thanks for the input....my experience a few years ago when i drove a suzuki ignis sport this was a test drive from agent with a stock ride...that car the agent purposely take me near paya lebar airport there where got winding road...tat car stick to the road like glue....i feel very confident when going round corner or bend at hi speed...but with my ek i do not feel confident when go round corner at high speed or when playing on road like old thomson road...Emperorcivic wrote:I don see a problem with slight serve.
Coilovers are meant to REDUCE bodyroll.
With Strut bars, the roll is controlled.
I mean correct me if i'm wrong, even if u re running on the best set of coils, there is such to be bodyroll.
its jus that it is minimal.
But that doesnt mean body roll is not good. Pros and cons.
Thats is why, there is such invention called bucket seats. =D
even if u re on 4 bars as suspension, u will still experience roll.
or maybe u might wanna elaborate more on ur problem u re facing?
maybe its normal cos ek more of a track car compared to the ignis which design for those rally like wrx evo....etc...
...anyway now i know why fong kim asked me not to touch any settings on the coilovers...he said he adjusted to suit my ride...yesterday after i set to hard...wow the dashboard feels like its going to pop out when i travel on uneven roads... 
WRX/EVO...Hmm and of course...Golf Gti... please dont Jio me...i only 1.6L Auto...u are 2.0L Turbo....
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Emperorcivic
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so have to agree. handling has many factors to consider.DIRT22 wrote:Several areas to take note of with regards to handling issues:
1. Suspension type and performance range
- Ride height, spring rate, damping setting, rebound setting (if available). An extremely slammed ride with entry level suspension is not going to handle as well as a moderately lowered ride on the same suspension. Entry level suspensions do not work very well when lowered too much since you have effectively reduced the range where the dampers can work effectively on conjunction with the springs.
2. Camber type and range (if available)
- Negative camber into what range and matched with how much toe in or out, front and back, will affect understeer and oversteer characteristics. You can set up your camber settings to either induce or reduce understeer or oversteer.
- In certain cases if your castor is off comparatively more on one side it will induce handling differences whether you take a left or right hard sweeper.
3. Anti-roll bar fitment and type (if available)
- Missing from this thread so far, the presence of anti-roll bars helps to "manage" the amount of body roll that is felt by the driver, allowing a greater degree of confidence when tackling corners. Having no roll in the car bodyshell at all is inherently bad for a road car! Uprated anti-roll bars work well in conjunction with the standard array of strut and lower-arm bars to reduce the amount of unwanted "feel" a driver gets during harder cornering situations.
4. Tire type and fitment
- Some jokers around like to run with semi-slick front tires and UHP road tires behind. Whatever their school of theory says if you want to believe them and follow their lead I'd advice you to better have some comprehensive insurance prepared for your car. Never run with mismatched tires!
5. Weight distribution
- Finely tuned cars (handling wise) behave very differently when you have a full sized adult sitting behind. I personally found that out the hard way when I went off the road taking a same corner that I've taken many many times alone. Never overestimate your own or your car's abilities, and always be aware of factors that will affect in one way or another your car's handling characteristics!