not bad. u have 18" rims with 8-9 km/L. u can try 40 PSI. maybe can help. i tried on my car.kkkt070707 wrote:Hey guys, need some help as to why am i running on super bad fuel consumption.
Abit on my car so maybe it'll be easiler for you guys to comment. I'm driving a 1.8l FD2. Was running on the 16" original rims and tyres for 3k + and the fuel consumption is still 8-9km/L.
Even after the 1st servicing it did not improve, i drive about 85% City and am not a heavy footer. Then i decided to get myself a set of Wedsport SA67R 18". It's reli light and the fuel consumption is still at 8-9km/L if i drive highway all the way it will be 10km/L. Is there something wrong with my ECU as i heard that the 1.8l stock can run max was 14.5km/L and mine when stock was 8-9km/L.
Please help.
Thanks guys.
Really BAD fuel consumption.
Re: Really BAD fuel consumption.
Re: Traffic
Think 18inches does cause a bit more of fuel comsuption, best is stick to 16 inches 205/55/16.
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turbo-honda
- Idling
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:05 pm
Singtech ECO fuel saver is currently giving away a few units as a lucky draw.
check out my post here.
http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
check out my post here.
http://www.shc-forum.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
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weaver87
- 6000rpm VTEC ON
- Posts: 627
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:12 am
- Location: Where u find rides....
I do agree with yr remarks that Pivot 3 amplify the signal.hammerhammer wrote:Pivot 3 Drive actually is an amplifier. It changes the amount of input from our pedal that goes into the ECU bcos our throttle is control by E-throttle. For example if using Eco mode the amount you press on the throttle for example 4mm is actually 2mm in normal mode. If using Sport mode you press 4mm actually is 8mm in normal mode. That's why when you press more in eco mode will save fuel as the gadget reduce the amount of input to the ECU. So the best is to practice your right foot to press lightly. For example I always imagine there is an egg inbetween my foot and the pedal then will be more delicate in pressing. I usually press very little and RPM about 2000 to 2200 while accelerating and 1800 to 2000 during highway crusing and can achieve 16km/l 50% urban 50% highway drive on my GE Fit 1.3
No point wasting money on Pivot 3 Drive or other form of amplifier gadget.
However I am using Hurricane Filter and Velocity Tuner and it helps with my car response in the low end and FC too.
However for big capacity car, as the weight is much heavier than small capacity car, moderating the foot pedal weight is not practical. I had been using Pivot 3 and the ease of switching to Sport mode while on Auto Gear is so much relaxing to drive my 2.4L car.
The best part of Pivot 3 is, it allows u to switch to ECO mode and save fuel especially when u are on highway ...
During traffic jam, the reduction of fuel signal also prevent you from accidentally accelerating too much and had to jam brake during heavy traffic flow......it actually prevent u from hitting the car in front.
Big capacity car will benefit more....as small capacity car already consume less fuel...so the significant saving may not be obvious....
Cheers.
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MCDS
- Civic ES/EU/EP Moderator
- Posts: 7871
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:15 pm
- Location: Somewhere... out there.....
Pls pardon my barging in as I dun drive the FD Civic.
But fuel consumption and fuel maximising is everybody's game these days and I'd like to share a thought or three here.
Below basic principles help to better your fuel efficiency:
Engine
(1) Engine Maintenance. Use a 5W-30 grade fully Synthetic engine oil. change oil every 8,000km instead of 10k.
(2) Use good spark plugs and change them every 30,000km or less (I change them every 15-25,000 km)
(3) Use a high flow filter (drop in is OK) - but clean it every oil change.
(4) Things like Velocity Tuner do work with stock airbox, so get it. it will help.
No need for those expensive fuel crackers etc. those are for WW2 engines. The newest Honda engines are already superbly engineered. and our fuels are quite well refined already unlike in WW2 where consistency is a big problem.
Running Gear
(5) Wheels - wow you on 18 inch? very bling, and very BIG tyres and therefore heavier and more air and results in more weight and more inertia to overcome when moving your vehicle, and accelerating it will take more effort (read burn more fuel) nevermind - still can compensate - accelerate like a trishaw and you'll be saving fuel.
(6) Do a proper balancing of your rims and tyres. make sure properly inflated to around 230kpa. slightly higher pressure will help the ease to rotate the tyres...
(7) Send your car for alignment check, and set the cambers to optimise roll.
(8.) Check your brakes and adjust so that they rotate freely (within safety limits - they shud actually have a little bit of brake rub...) when you spin them.
Weight reduction
(9) Unless you are a travelling salesman requiring to carry lots of samples and documents and forms in your boot, you should remove ALL things you do not need for the day. best if your boot is totally empty except for the spare tyre and basic tools issued by Honda.
(10) Look tru your interior - all unnecessary lose items to be removed from the car. you only need one street directory and one or two umbrellas. your golf clubs also out... (this one optional if you anytime go play a round one which is so shiok...)
(11) The HEAVY 3M type carpets... throw them out... just use the standard cloth type, or rubber mats... they are so much lighter...
(12) If you have ICE... well... consider using one small sub instead of two giant ones... and ... well, if you have ICE... too bad lor.. if not, take everything out - stock set is lightest
no need extra amps, extra everything... silencing mats etc... those really add up the weight...
Driving Habits (this is the real killer in fuel efficiency)
(13) No need to warm up your engine - this is NOT Alsaska... Start and go - but very slowly, and keep to low revs till the temp needle moves to normal temp. You will discover that in a MSCP if you on top floor, by the time you get to the out-ramp, your car temp already at normal operating temp ... MSCP speed limit is 20kmh right? no need to speed...
(14) No need to warm down (turbo-timer set to 5 seconds or 10 secs enough - yours not a turbo car...) Actually, as you unbuckle your seat belts, fold your mirrors, and keep your cash card, etc. you already idle your car 15 seconds if not more... can instantly off when ready to leave...
(15) Keep to speed limits... and accelerate slowly unless emergency... you will be amazed this part if you can adhere, your car fuel efficiency will be very good. Coast whenever possible to traffic lights - aim to use as little brakes as possible - i.e. ease off throttle when approaching red lights - no point to keep stepping on accelarator to get there right? let the car roll there... slow? Keep left lor...
(16) manual override the aircon compressor - off it when moving off the traffic light and on it back after you move off first and second gears... this will also save you lots of petrol.
(17) If you can, fit a vaccum meter. you can use it to monitor how much throttle you can ease off to maintain speed... a most helpful meter indeed...
ok... enough babble for now... just enjoy your ride... getting the most out of your fuel is just a fun part of driving ...
Using a consistent brand/grade of petrol - this is a good suggestion too. Use 98/97 grade petrol for city driving. U will need the extra to negotiate cross junctions and filtering...etc.
But fuel consumption and fuel maximising is everybody's game these days and I'd like to share a thought or three here.
Below basic principles help to better your fuel efficiency:
Engine
(1) Engine Maintenance. Use a 5W-30 grade fully Synthetic engine oil. change oil every 8,000km instead of 10k.
(2) Use good spark plugs and change them every 30,000km or less (I change them every 15-25,000 km)
(3) Use a high flow filter (drop in is OK) - but clean it every oil change.
(4) Things like Velocity Tuner do work with stock airbox, so get it. it will help.
No need for those expensive fuel crackers etc. those are for WW2 engines. The newest Honda engines are already superbly engineered. and our fuels are quite well refined already unlike in WW2 where consistency is a big problem.
Running Gear
(5) Wheels - wow you on 18 inch? very bling, and very BIG tyres and therefore heavier and more air and results in more weight and more inertia to overcome when moving your vehicle, and accelerating it will take more effort (read burn more fuel) nevermind - still can compensate - accelerate like a trishaw and you'll be saving fuel.
(6) Do a proper balancing of your rims and tyres. make sure properly inflated to around 230kpa. slightly higher pressure will help the ease to rotate the tyres...
(7) Send your car for alignment check, and set the cambers to optimise roll.
(8.) Check your brakes and adjust so that they rotate freely (within safety limits - they shud actually have a little bit of brake rub...) when you spin them.
Weight reduction
(9) Unless you are a travelling salesman requiring to carry lots of samples and documents and forms in your boot, you should remove ALL things you do not need for the day. best if your boot is totally empty except for the spare tyre and basic tools issued by Honda.
(10) Look tru your interior - all unnecessary lose items to be removed from the car. you only need one street directory and one or two umbrellas. your golf clubs also out... (this one optional if you anytime go play a round one which is so shiok...)
(11) The HEAVY 3M type carpets... throw them out... just use the standard cloth type, or rubber mats... they are so much lighter...
(12) If you have ICE... well... consider using one small sub instead of two giant ones... and ... well, if you have ICE... too bad lor.. if not, take everything out - stock set is lightest
no need extra amps, extra everything... silencing mats etc... those really add up the weight...Driving Habits (this is the real killer in fuel efficiency)
(13) No need to warm up your engine - this is NOT Alsaska... Start and go - but very slowly, and keep to low revs till the temp needle moves to normal temp. You will discover that in a MSCP if you on top floor, by the time you get to the out-ramp, your car temp already at normal operating temp ... MSCP speed limit is 20kmh right? no need to speed...
(14) No need to warm down (turbo-timer set to 5 seconds or 10 secs enough - yours not a turbo car...) Actually, as you unbuckle your seat belts, fold your mirrors, and keep your cash card, etc. you already idle your car 15 seconds if not more... can instantly off when ready to leave...
(15) Keep to speed limits... and accelerate slowly unless emergency... you will be amazed this part if you can adhere, your car fuel efficiency will be very good. Coast whenever possible to traffic lights - aim to use as little brakes as possible - i.e. ease off throttle when approaching red lights - no point to keep stepping on accelarator to get there right? let the car roll there... slow? Keep left lor...
(16) manual override the aircon compressor - off it when moving off the traffic light and on it back after you move off first and second gears... this will also save you lots of petrol.
(17) If you can, fit a vaccum meter. you can use it to monitor how much throttle you can ease off to maintain speed... a most helpful meter indeed...
ok... enough babble for now... just enjoy your ride... getting the most out of your fuel is just a fun part of driving ...
Using a consistent brand/grade of petrol - this is a good suggestion too. Use 98/97 grade petrol for city driving. U will need the extra to negotiate cross junctions and filtering...etc.
Freedom isn't Free, it costs people like you and me... Freedom costs a buck 'o five....
Many drivers make their choice of vehicles based on the manufacturer’s figures for FC Fuel Consumption and drivers get very disappointed by the real world FC. The fact is, car manufacturers get their FC figures based on laboratory tests to achieve consistent standards for car manufacturers. What this means is that these cars are never, never driven on the roads.
(NB. These tests are conducted without the aircondition switch on which will typically improve FC by 5-10%)
Taken from http://www.fuelsaver.govt.nz/explain.html
About the tests
New vehicle testing is carried out by independent test organisations or by the manufacturers at their own test facilities. The test results are normally part of the vehicle’s official certification in the country in which it is sold.2
Standard tests are not fully representative of real life driving conditions because:
* It is not practical to test every new car. A typical car, of every model from each production run, is chosen for testing.
* Variations in driving styles and in road, car and weather conditions can significantly influence the results achieved.
While you may not have much control over some factors (such as traffic conditions), you do have control over others (such as how you drive and how well your car is maintained). You will find tips on how to minimise fuel consumption on the Habits page.
The tests are carried out on new cars. Some deterioration of fuel consumption occurs to vehicles as they age, depending on how much they are used and maintained. As a guide, an older vehicle will consume more fuel than an equivalent new vehicle.
Checkout http://sgauto.wordpress.com/2009/06/13/ ... n-figures/ for more of this article.
(NB. These tests are conducted without the aircondition switch on which will typically improve FC by 5-10%)
Taken from http://www.fuelsaver.govt.nz/explain.html
About the tests
New vehicle testing is carried out by independent test organisations or by the manufacturers at their own test facilities. The test results are normally part of the vehicle’s official certification in the country in which it is sold.2
Standard tests are not fully representative of real life driving conditions because:
* It is not practical to test every new car. A typical car, of every model from each production run, is chosen for testing.
* Variations in driving styles and in road, car and weather conditions can significantly influence the results achieved.
While you may not have much control over some factors (such as traffic conditions), you do have control over others (such as how you drive and how well your car is maintained). You will find tips on how to minimise fuel consumption on the Habits page.
The tests are carried out on new cars. Some deterioration of fuel consumption occurs to vehicles as they age, depending on how much they are used and maintained. As a guide, an older vehicle will consume more fuel than an equivalent new vehicle.
Checkout http://sgauto.wordpress.com/2009/06/13/ ... n-figures/ for more of this article.
-
turbo-honda
- Idling
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:05 pm
Re: Really BAD fuel consumption.
kkkt070707 wrote:Hey guys, need some help as to why am i running on super bad fuel consumption.
Abit on my car so maybe it'll be easiler for you guys to comment. I'm driving a 1.8l FD2. Was running on the 16" original rims and tyres for 3k + and the fuel consumption is still 8-9km/L.
Even after the 1st servicing it did not improve, i drive about 85% City and am not a heavy footer. Then i decided to get myself a set of Wedsport SA67R 18". It's reli light and the fuel consumption is still at 8-9km/L if i drive highway all the way it will be 10km/L. Is there something wrong with my ECU as i heard that the 1.8l stock can run max was 14.5km/L and mine when stock was 8-9km/L.
Please help.
Thanks guys.
I CAN SUGGEST YOU THIS NEW DEVICE, SINGTECH ECO FUEL SAVER....GUARANTEED AND TESTED,.....
For your more information:
http://www.singtech.com.sg/eco.html
Hi bro... My car only 9km/l ah... Most of the time on city...spinworkx wrote:8-9km/L on a 1.8FD is not that bad but it should be better.
I think you should get at least 10km/l
I'm driving FD2 and i'm getting 10-11km/l and i'm also on 18" and it's not the lightweight forged ones it's a Rays United arrows and each rim almost 10kg liao
I also driving mostly city and little highway.
Not sure why you're getting so low...i feel it can be better...
One thing i note though..our cars...don't handle changing petrol very well...
Everytime i change petrol company because of discounts or what not...the FC drops horribly for about 2-3 tanks before it goes back to normal...best to stick with one company and one grade...
My rim only 17"/225/45...
Guess maybe you can share whats your set up?
Thanks...
I think it is common you get 8-11km/L for this 1.8 car, the toyota altis 1.8 which is lighter than FD2 also get 8-11km/l for combined cycle on 17" rim. if really want to save fuel, can try 1.3 jazz or mini car like subaru R2.
I drive subaru R2 before in 100% city driving, still manage to get 15km/L- 16km/L, the engine simply too small, can't drink much petrol.
for car like toyota vios 1.5 which i also owned b4, 100% city driving is getting around 11km/L to 12km/L
So i think you getting 8-9 km/L for 1.8 car is very normal, not to worry, just try to avoid the traffic jam.
I drive subaru R2 before in 100% city driving, still manage to get 15km/L- 16km/L, the engine simply too small, can't drink much petrol.
for car like toyota vios 1.5 which i also owned b4, 100% city driving is getting around 11km/L to 12km/L
So i think you getting 8-9 km/L for 1.8 car is very normal, not to worry, just try to avoid the traffic jam.
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chayfoocheong
- 4000rpm
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:23 pm
- Location: Singapore
I personally think it is normal for FD1 fuel consumption of 8-9km/L under this condition:
a, In a traffic jam; b, Waiting in the car with aircon running c, slow moving traffic.
I have experienced this before with my FD2 fuel consumption being like this. The alternative is switch off engine if waiting too long & open all the window
a, In a traffic jam; b, Waiting in the car with aircon running c, slow moving traffic.
I have experienced this before with my FD2 fuel consumption being like this. The alternative is switch off engine if waiting too long & open all the window
hmm, some bro pointed out that hard braking will consume fuel? do you mean by hard braking?
or is the extra fuel consumption due to the lowering of gear and hence, higher rpm? hmm, besides that, cant seem to draw a line between braking and petrol consumption..
pardon me if i sounded blunt.. =/
but i'm having also 8-8.5km/l during city driving, but it can go up to 11.5 to 12.5 during long trips. i'm on FD1.. i guess it's normal, not everyday's a sunday for a typical singaporean driver!
or is the extra fuel consumption due to the lowering of gear and hence, higher rpm? hmm, besides that, cant seem to draw a line between braking and petrol consumption..
pardon me if i sounded blunt.. =/
but i'm having also 8-8.5km/l during city driving, but it can go up to 11.5 to 12.5 during long trips. i'm on FD1.. i guess it's normal, not everyday's a sunday for a typical singaporean driver!