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Swapping to stock euro r brake kit

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ahceng79
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Re: Hi

Post by ahceng79 » Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:07 pm

viper76 wrote:
ahceng79 wrote:I have installed the euro r brake kits with new ebc yellow pads, noticed a lot of difference than the cl7a brakes

gd for u bro...as long serve ur needs n purpose...
thanks bro, hope to see you guys if there are future meet ups

Bimmer
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Post by Bimmer » Sat Aug 24, 2013 8:43 am

Haha...this thread brings back memories....:lol:

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YSL
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Post by YSL » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:38 am

Bimmer wrote:Haha...this thread brings back memories....:lol:
hahahah. totally agreed :lol: :lol: :lol:

cl7teckie
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Post by cl7teckie » Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:11 am

memories.....everything seems so far away......but

what a wonderful reliable car, even by stock standard.
Pls dont ask me for wkshop, as I know none...I only know it is safer and faster to fix cars on my own.

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rjj
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Post by rjj » Mon Aug 26, 2013 5:38 pm

Hi Bro how do we check if our hub run out?

thanks
cl7teckie wrote:Braking is one of those highly mis-understood equipment in a car. A lot think that bigger is sure better. It is too complex to even discuss. Wrong bias, and ur car easily go out of control, but a lot will not even think twice.

I used scientific measurements, formula and proper measurement technique to ascertain if stock brake is up to the necessary performance. Firstly, CL7A is too slow on a long Sepang track to need big rotors. But the original stock 282mm is really lacking in some ways. When I upgraded to 300mm and re-run measurement, everything was okie. The 300mm easily lock up the front wheels, and EBD constantly kicks in. But on Sepang track with a slow CL7A, braking is not important at all, so to think BBK is required on a stock CL7A is questionable on Sepang.

Yes, brand name, with lots of $$$ is better, but there is always something better when there is no budget limit. I never say they are not good. A 4pot with the same hydraulic bias, and same 300mm rotor size will improve pad longevity over single pod, and provide more consistent result over the lifespan of the pad.

I have tested using back wheel distance measurement compared with another CL7 with a branded BBK. And the braking distance was within a few centimeter, when braked from 140km/h. And you think the BBK was better. Nope, my 300mm stock caliper came out shorter. But again, it is difficult to tell, as while we were on same tyre, the BBK needs a bigger rim, and thus more weight (inertia). Maybe my hub run-out was tighter. Maybe, and maybe because the EBD kicks in more furiously, when using BBK with more bias, and lose 'grip' ...but within error of measurement, I would put them to a draw.

I have not heard of a stock brake failing, so far. But I personally knows two bro who went back to stock, after their BBK failed. Bad installation or bad brake, I dont know, but I can say it was not the super big brand.

Maintenance is most important. I replace the seals on my calipers every 3yrs, and properly flush the hydraulics. Maybe that's why my brake works on and on. Caliper does not have wear and tear, other than the seals. If the seal is replaced properly, even a 2nd hand used one, is as good as new.

1. Check your hub run-out
2. Rotor is not wrapped.
3. Caliper with good seal....and you will know if it really works..

Lastly, servicing of seal on caliper is not something for every workshop. There are 3 types of grease being used. A special hold-out tube is required to install the piston without mixing these grease. Sadly, I am not aware of any workshop that will make a device specially just for CL7. Let alone a clean-room wiht clean hands to apply the grease.
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cl7teckie
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Post by cl7teckie » Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:59 pm

[quote="rjj"]Hi Bro how do we check if our hub run out?

thanks

my fren, run-out is always measured with a dial gauge lor..
Pls dont ask me for wkshop, as I know none...I only know it is safer and faster to fix cars on my own.

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rjj
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Post by rjj » Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:42 pm

cl7teckie wrote:
rjj wrote:Hi Bro how do we check if our hub run out?

thanks

my fren, run-out is always measured with a dial gauge lor..
Tks bro. :)
Ford Laser 1.3, Suzuki GTI1.3. Alfa Romero 33 1.7,
Honda Civic 1.3, Mitsubishi GTI1.6, Honda Civic VTI1.6,
Honda Civic SIR1.6, Honda Interga 1.8, Subaru Lagacy RSK2.0,
Honda Odyssey 2.4, JDM EuroR 2.0

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rjj
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Post by rjj » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:45 pm

cl7teckie wrote:
rjj wrote:Hi Bro how do we check if our hub run out?

thanks

my fren, run-out is always measured with a dial gauge lor..
Tks bro. :)
Ford Laser 1.3, Suzuki GTI1.3. Alfa Romero 33 1.7,
Honda Civic 1.3, Mitsubishi GTI1.6, Honda Civic VTI1.6,
Honda Civic SIR1.6, Honda Interga 1.8, Subaru Lagacy RSK2.0,
Honda Odyssey 2.4, JDM EuroR 2.0

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Re: Swapping to stock euro r brake kit

Post by RunStop » Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:02 pm

ahceng79 wrote:Hi thinking of changing to stock euro r brake kit from my current cl7a brake kit,will i notice difference in terms of performance?
CL7A is 282mm

CL7R is 300mm

both pads are identical so 18mm increase in diameter ==> 9mm each size. Small improvement only

Better you keep front stock & upgrade rear to Pro Kit 300, you will in fact get better braking and reduce nose dive with this set up :wink:

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buzz to chat 90278686
CL7R - 4 pot 355mm & Pro Kit 320mm in 18"
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cl7teckie
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Post by cl7teckie » Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:49 pm

:shock: great for taxi with load behind......but make sure one knows how to drive with "oversteer" and understand the EBD before upgrading the rear ...I can only say most drivers does not know how to manage it..
Pls dont ask me for wkshop, as I know none...I only know it is safer and faster to fix cars on my own.

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rjj
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Post by rjj » Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:03 am

cl7teckie wrote:
rjj wrote:Hi Bro how do we check if our hub run out?

thanks

my fren, run-out is always measured with a dial gauge lor..
Tks bro. :)
Ford Laser 1.3, Suzuki GTI1.3. Alfa Romero 33 1.7,
Honda Civic 1.3, Mitsubishi GTI1.6, Honda Civic VTI1.6,
Honda Civic SIR1.6, Honda Interga 1.8, Subaru Lagacy RSK2.0,
Honda Odyssey 2.4, JDM EuroR 2.0

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