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which mod makes the most sense?

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tagout
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which mod makes the most sense?

Post by tagout » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:57 am

this topic has beaten to dead..nevertheless, i shall revisit hopefully to stir up the interest of once a popular accord forum.

in descending order based on my butt feel

1) Decat + exo mod..needless to say, cheap mod yet able to free up exhaust flow = more power

2) frequent oil change. butt feel of any brand oil? 5bhp up at least..ultraman,spiderman,x-men brand all gives power up feeling

3) remove spare wheel + unwanted stuff. lighter car = faster car. period

4) change to lighter wheels. same as above plus it looks nice too

5) good set of BBK. safety come first

6) coilover. improve handling. it can look fierce = fast for ricer

6) lightened flywheel = more responsive ride. K20A loves to be rev hard

7) IHE + ECU tuning. sadly, our model still lacks a proper way of doing it..

8) lastly, ahem, blue printed engine by engine builder, not from boleh land turns into chief engineer depending on situation who sometimes can doubles up as tuner if needed to be.... :lol:

lots of nonsense from me this year..pls bear with me happy CNY guys !!huat ah
"The lazy lefty legger" - 2011

Gymrat76
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Post by Gymrat76 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:07 am

:lol: :lol:

Sometimes I wonder why I'm still on this forum... withdrawal symptoms I think

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chock
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Re: which mod makes the most sense?

Post by chock » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:30 am

tagout wrote:this topic has beaten to dead..nevertheless, i shall revisit hopefully to stir up the interest of once a popular accord forum.

in descending order based on my butt feel

1) Decat + exo mod..needless to say, cheap mod yet able to free up exhaust flow = more power

2) frequent oil change. butt feel of any brand oil? 5bhp up at least..ultraman,spiderman,x-men brand all gives power up feeling

3) remove spare wheel + unwanted stuff. lighter car = faster car. period

4) change to lighter wheels. same as above plus it looks nice too

5) good set of BBK. safety come first

6) coilover. improve handling. it can look fierce = fast for ricer

6) lightened flywheel = more responsive ride. K20A loves to be rev hard

7) IHE + ECU tuning. sadly, our model still lacks a proper way of doing it..

8) lastly, ahem, blue printed engine by engine builder, not from boleh land turns into chief engineer depending on situation who sometimes can doubles up as tuner if needed to be.... :lol:

lots of nonsense from me this year..pls bear with me happy CNY guys !!huat ah
LOL.

I guess if you want instant pickup gain, i go for no.3 remove of all "extras" in the car..its free too!!

Gymrat76
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Post by Gymrat76 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:37 am

driver lose weight, also = lighter car.. but in song's case, not much room to lose :lol:

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tagout
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Post by tagout » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:48 am

Gymrat76 wrote:driver lose weight, also = lighter car.. but in song's case, not much room to lose :lol:
yo bro..so any resolutions set this year? muay thai once again? :lol:

i just did my last IPPT for this year..did not passed out dead, fortunately..
"The lazy lefty legger" - 2011

Cougar_23
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Post by Cougar_23 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:55 am

to add,

a. racing lightweight battery (ams, odessey etc)
b. high power alternator
c. more stickers & emblems, prob give the rice effect and scare the hell of GTRs out there ....

totallypatrick
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Post by totallypatrick » Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:16 pm

Hi bro, as for lightened flywheel alone which brand do you recommend that works with stock clutch or is it better to change the whole set more worth it. Something like the ogura SS. Thanks!

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Re: which mod makes the most sense?

Post by Speed-R » Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:48 pm

tagout wrote:this topic has beaten to dead..nevertheless, i shall revisit hopefully to stir up the interest of once a popular accord forum.

in descending order based on my butt feel

1) Decat + exo mod..needless to say, cheap mod yet able to free up exhaust flow = more power

2) frequent oil change. butt feel of any brand oil? 5bhp up at least..ultraman,spiderman,x-men brand all gives power up feeling

3) remove spare wheel + unwanted stuff. lighter car = faster car. period

4) change to lighter wheels. same as above plus it looks nice too

5) good set of BBK. safety come first

6) coilover. improve handling. it can look fierce = fast for ricer

6) lightened flywheel = more responsive ride. K20A loves to be rev hard

7) IHE + ECU tuning. sadly, our model still lacks a proper way of doing it..

8) lastly, ahem, blue printed engine by engine builder, not from boleh land turns into chief engineer depending on situation who sometimes can doubles up as tuner if needed to be.... :lol:

lots of nonsense from me this year..pls bear with me happy CNY guys !!huat ah
lastly, dun mod, keep as stock, make sense? :D ..Happy CNY !!
-Nissan Sunny 1.5
-Mitsubishi Lancer GLX 1.6
-JDM Euro-R 2L
-Honda Odyssey Absolute 2.4L

Gymrat76
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Post by Gymrat76 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:23 pm

tagout wrote:
Gymrat76 wrote:driver lose weight, also = lighter car.. but in song's case, not much room to lose :lol:
yo bro..so any resolutions set this year? muay thai once again? :lol:

i just did my last IPPT for this year..did not passed out dead, fortunately..
Haiya, I driving sluggish Civic, so I also sluggish no mood to exercise hahaha

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Re: which mod makes the most sense?

Post by lucasrock » Thu Jan 19, 2012 3:04 pm

tagout wrote:this topic has beaten to dead..nevertheless, i shall revisit hopefully to stir up the interest of once a popular accord forum.

in descending order based on my butt feel

1) Decat + exo mod..needless to say, cheap mod yet able to free up exhaust flow = more power

2) frequent oil change. butt feel of any brand oil? 5bhp up at least..ultraman,spiderman,x-men brand all gives power up feeling

3) remove spare wheel + unwanted stuff. lighter car = faster car. period

4) change to lighter wheels. same as above plus it looks nice too

5) good set of BBK. safety come first

6) coilover. improve handling. it can look fierce = fast for ricer

6) lightened flywheel = more responsive ride. K20A loves to be rev hard

7) IHE + ECU tuning. sadly, our model still lacks a proper way of doing it..

8) lastly, ahem, blue printed engine by engine builder, not from boleh land turns into chief engineer depending on situation who sometimes can doubles up as tuner if needed to be.... :lol:

lots of nonsense from me this year..pls bear with me happy CNY guys !!huat ah
Tagout, you never mention the more extreme mods??

By more extreme, i do not mean lup one turbo, or K24 hor.....those simple mods to do.

I am wondering if any workshop can lup on 2 x 50HP electric motor to the rear wheels with a bank of batteries to make it a EuroR hybrid. kekekek
:D :D

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Post by hifi1 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:30 pm

Improve driver's skill. Car chio chio but driver think he super sure end up jialat jialat....
Why everything I like I cannot afford and LTA cannot passed?

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Post by Seraphblade » Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:20 pm

Imo, the best value for money mod would be the supercharger if we are to not follow the rules strictly, decat and any exos mod is gonna get fined just as bad as installing a supercharger...

Actually, if you can get a cheap 2nd hand turbo charger, that will even be more value for money. The only problem with a turbo kit is that there is no direct fit on at the moment, and all require special fabrication of the header, downpipe, manifold, etc...

As for a supercharger, it will set you back around 4.7-5k depending on where you get it from, up to maybe 7k... A good one will give u 260 - 270 whp at just 0.7 bar running our stock 11.5 CR. If you are more hungry for power, install a thicker gasket to lower it to 11 CR and do a simple pulley mod to run 1.0 bar, you will be smelling close to 280 - 290 WHP or even more.

Compared to a K24, a basic 87 x 99mm block with 12.5 CR will see you 230 - 240 WHP at best (without headwork). This can already easily set you back 8k. A better block (like oddessy block or oddessy absolute block will see this figure go up to 12k+++) With Headwork, (PNP + oversized valve + higher lift cams), you will probably see 250 + WHP.

With a 89 (or even 90mm) x 102mm block, with 13CR, you will see around 260 - 270 WHP with head work.. But at a cost that is gonna be close to 15 - 20k (depending on the block you are working with)...

20k vs 5k for the same output...

Of course, the K24 block is much more stealthy... Much much more.
Ex: Honda Civic SiR (EK4) > Hyundai Avante
Current : Honda Accord Euro-R (CL7R) > BMW 328i (F30)

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tagout
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Post by tagout » Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:33 am

totallypatrick wrote:Hi bro, as for lightened flywheel alone which brand do you recommend that works with stock clutch or is it better to change the whole set more worth it. Something like the ogura SS. Thanks!

hmm...if you intend to change lightened flywheel, then wait till clutch gone and do it one shot..as fo which brand, i guess they are more or less similar..the weigh of it, price, determines my choice..you can't go wrong with ogura..

sidetrack a bit..you know, one of my main reasons for selling off my evo was its clutch feel. i tried with OS giken twin plate, toda single and finally exedy single..all in the span of just two years?. in the end, the straw that breaks the camel back was i drove my buddy FD2R using stock clutch..

so what i am trying to say is my comments are all skewed to what i feel best for myself..what you like may not be what i like..:lol:
"The lazy lefty legger" - 2011

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tagout
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Post by tagout » Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:22 am

Seraphblade wrote:Imo, the best value for money mod would be the supercharger if we are to not follow the rules strictly, decat and any exos mod is gonna get fined just as bad as installing a supercharger...

Actually, if you can get a cheap 2nd hand turbo charger, that will even be more value for money. The only problem with a turbo kit is that there is no direct fit on at the moment, and all require special fabrication of the header, downpipe, manifold, etc...

As for a supercharger, it will set you back around 4.7-5k depending on where you get it from, up to maybe 7k... A good one will give u 260 - 270 whp at just 0.7 bar running our stock 11.5 CR. If you are more hungry for power, install a thicker gasket to lower it to 11 CR and do a simple pulley mod to run 1.0 bar, you will be smelling close to 280 - 290 WHP or even more.

Compared to a K24, a basic 87 x 99mm block with 12.5 CR will see you 230 - 240 WHP at best (without headwork). This can already easily set you back 8k. A better block (like oddessy block or oddessy absolute block will see this figure go up to 12k+++) With Headwork, (PNP + oversized valve + higher lift cams), you will probably see 250 + WHP.

With a 89 (or even 90mm) x 102mm block, with 13CR, you will see around 260 - 270 WHP with head work.. But at a cost that is gonna be close to 15 - 20k (depending on the block you are working with)...

20k vs 5k for the same output...

Of course, the K24 block is much more stealthy... Much much more.

as with all forced induced engines, heat comes into the picture and manufacturers take that into account when building up the engine block, the sleeves, extra water jackets running the side walls, headers designs etc. all that are either thickened or studied intensively for a proper heat transfer so that they can last an acceptable time period even with poor manitanance and low grade petrol.

With our hot climate all year round, it is not gonna to be so straight forward as to snapping on a turbo/supercharge, do the head works and ignore all the tiny bits. i doubt 20K is enough..the car will ran poorly if applying the same mentality as if the car is still an NA...likely more time in workshops than on streets

also, with such high power output >270whp, how are you going to put them into the tamac properly? once you crossed 280whp, it not longer make sense on FF platform without any form of torque control and suspension works. only ford focus RS500 is crazy enough and they have all sorts of electroncis trickery just to get that monster planted
"The lazy lefty legger" - 2011

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Post by maskedrider » Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:11 pm

Hi Tagout

Yes, the filter fixed well... Thank you
Hmm... I got a euroR part in my CM4
:twisted: :twisted:

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